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loam, one part leaf mould, and one part clean sharp sand (to this 

 it would be beneficial to add a good sprinkling of powdered char- 

 coal), all thoroughly mixed. The soil should be 6 to 9 inches deep. 

 A layer of good sharp sand one inch thick should be laid on the 

 surface. As a protection against hot sun and heavy rains it would 

 be well to put a roof of thatch over the beds in the form of a shed 

 but it should be constructed with open sides to allow plenty of 

 light and air. A shed 4 feet wide, with a lean-to roof on stout 

 posts, open at the back and front, will be found a useful size. 

 The posts should be 6 feet high in front and 3 ft. 6 in. at the back. 

 The roof may be thatch, shingles, or other light material. If more 

 than one is required, a space 4 feet wide should be left between 

 the sheds to give room for watering, weeding, and general atten- 

 tion. 



" The best material for cuttings is that from straight, healthy, 

 and well matured shoots of the current year's growth, not too soft 

 or too hard. If too hard they will not root readily, and if too soft 

 they will be liable to damp off. The cuttings may be of any size 

 from the thickness of a lead pencil to f inch in diameter. They 

 should be cut into lengths of from 6 to 9 inches. A clean cut 

 with a very sharp knife immediately below a joint to form the 

 base of the cutting is of the greatest importance. If the cut por- 

 tion is torn or jagged, or too far away from the joint, it is almost 

 certain to decay, though it may remain green for a long time. 



"The operation for inserting the cuttings is best done by open- 

 ing a trench with a sharp spade so as to form a straight edge. 

 The prepared cuttings should be laid against this and the soil 

 pressed firmly round them. They should be placed in rows 9 to 

 12 inches apart and 3 inches apart in the rows, and at a sufficient 

 depth to leave only two or three buds above the surface. 



"The sooner the cuttings are made and put in after being taken 

 from the trees the better. After the cuttings are put in, the beds 

 should be watered to settle the soil, and if in the open, they must 

 be carefully shaded and sunlight must be only gradually let in as 

 they become rooted and can bear it. If all goes well they should 

 be rooted in 2 to 3 months, but they will not be ready for planting 

 out for three or four months. 



" Camphor may also be propagated by layers. The operation 

 of layering is very simple. The shoots should be bent down to 

 the soil. The branch at the bend should be cut half-way through, 

 then cutting upwards for about li to 2 inches, so as to form a 

 tongue. The cut portion must be kept apart by a slight twist, or 

 by placing a piece of brick or a small stone in the cleft. The 

 shoot should then be pegged down firmly into a groove made in 

 the soil for its reception and covered with soil. The end of the 

 shoot must be kept upright by tying it to a stick. 



•' Another simple way is to split the branch at the bend where 

 it is to be laid in the ground, making the split about 2 inches 

 long, and keeping the cut parts open by inserting a piece of wood 

 or stone. Peg down well into the soil and stake. The ends 

 of the shoots should be cut back a few inches with a sharp knife." 



