20 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



The best time to prune is about the last of September, or immediately after 

 the apples are gathered. One advantage in pruning before the leaves have fallen 

 is, we can more readily observe the limbs which nature is about to throw off, a-id 

 assist in the operation. Prune any time during the winter months when the wood 

 is nf)t frozen; but if the object in pruning is fruit, regardless of the health or long 

 life of the tree, watch the progress of the season and prune when the trees are in 

 full leaf, leaves full grown. At that time the wound heals rapidly, and the tree is 

 less likely to throw out sprouts. The pressure of sap under the process of growth 

 has a tendency to check the rapid growth of the tree, causing it to form fruit-buds ;, 

 but the stumps of the limbs taken off" at this season of the year will be more sub- 

 ject to decay— often to the heart. Again, if the object in pruning is to form a 

 compact, well-rounded head, then prune or shorten about the time the buds begin 

 to swell. Cutting off limbs at this season of the year causes it to throw out two 

 or more branches. But for general pruning, early spring is the most unfavorable 

 season in the year. I have seen pruning done at that time when the sap is the 

 thinnest, and it would then run out and blacken the bark. If the lower limbs bend 

 too close to the ground, they should be cut off, and it is sometimes necessary in 

 this case to cut oft' some large limbs. For this purpose I use a double-edged prun- 

 ing saw. Never forget to paint all wounds an inch and over in size; this is an 

 important point. I use a mixture of tar and wood ashes. 



When planting, select well-shaped, thrifty trees; [ prefer two-year-olds. Cut 

 out all the cross limbs and see that the head is evenly balanced, with, however, the 

 heavy side to the southwest, as that side needs more shade to protect the trunk 

 and main limbs from the hot afternoon sun, leaving a center stem to avoid forks. 

 Don't forget the nature of the different varieties, such as the Ben Davis and many 

 others, which are inclined to a low spreading top. Start the top about four feet 

 from the ground; while to such as make a more upright growth, give not over 

 three feet of trunk. No intelligent orchardist would give the same shaped top to 

 a High Top Sweet as to a Winesap. The extremes of being either too compact or 

 too open should be avoided. Have the top sufficiently compact to shade the trunk, 

 yet open enough to admit the air and light freely. If we want large ears of corn,, 

 we cultivate; if too many stalks in a hill, we thin out; then if we want large, well- 

 matured and richly colored fruit, we muse prune. This should be done while the 

 trees are small. The pruning can be done with the fingers and knife. If this has 

 been neglected large limbs must be cut off, and this destroys the natural equilibrium 

 between the top and the root, and to restore this suckers or sprouts must be thrown 

 out. If pruning has been neglected, care should be taken and not all be done in 

 one season ; as a rule, only small living limbs should be cut off (those of the insid e 

 which interfere with others and shut out the sun and hinder the pickers in gather- 

 ing the fruit), and all water-sprouts, unless it be those you want to grow into 

 limbs. The loss of small limbs is not felt severely, as the wound heals quickly. 

 All dead and diseased limbs should be removed. No definite rule can be given for 

 pruning, as no two trees are alike. One must notice the tree and then let judgment 

 and good sense be the guide. 



DISCUSSION. 



Ml". Murray would like to have a discussion on this subject. He 

 differs from the writer ; says we make a mistake in trying to make all 

 trees have a uniform appearance. Differs also as to the height of 

 head. Sees bad results from high-top trees, on account of sun-scald^ 

 etc. An ounce of preventive is worth a ton of cure. 



