152 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



leaned toward the wind slightly, or else be supported by a strong stake. 

 This avoids lopsided rows so often seen on exposed slopes. 



PRUNING THE YOUNG TREES. 



Since some of the roots are removed when the tree is dng from the 

 nursery, and possibly some are pruned off before planting, the tops must 

 be cut back to produce a balanced condition. This should be done im- 

 mediately after planting. The practice of doing this pruning before the 

 tree is set is not often satisfactory. In doing the pruning, the orchard- 

 ist should aim to top the trees low, from 18 to 24 inches above the 

 ground. When the trees are full grown, pruning, spraying, thinning 

 and harvesting will be more convenient than if headed high. 



Apples, plums, pears and sour cherries should be pruned so as to leave 

 three to five main or scaffold limbs distributed up and down the trunk 

 for from 12 to 15 inches to avoid bad crotches, and these should be as 

 conveniently distributed as possible about the trunk so as not to make 

 the tree lopsided or so that one limb will not grow above another and 

 interfere with it. (Plate 2, Figs. 1 and 2.) These small branches 

 should be cut back to from 2 to 6 buds, the cut being made just above a 

 bud. Yearling peaches and sweet cherries should usually be pruned back 

 to a whip. (Plate 2, Figs. 3 and 4.) 



The pruning for the first four or five years should be very carefully 

 and sj^stematically done so that the young tree may produce a strong 

 symmetrical open top. Each spring the main limbs should be cut back 

 to make them grow stocky and strong. At the same time all undesirable 

 branches should be cut out and the rest shaped so that the top ^ill be 

 open, admitting free circulation of air and sunlight. 



Since different varieties of fruits have different natural habits of 

 growth, these habits should be taken into consideration. Those natur- 

 ally growing compact heads may be pruned so that the branches will 

 grow outward while those with tops naturally open, need not be pruned 

 so severely. 



In all cases make smooth, clean cuts, and as close to the trunk limbs 

 or buds as possible, but not so close as to injure the trunk or bud. 



AFTER-CARE OF THE ORCHARD. 



It is very essential that the young trees be kept in the best possible 

 condition of thrift and health, hence it is necessary to conserve all the 

 moisture and plant food in the soil. To do this cultivate thoroughly, 

 and systematically. Different soils and different conditions will alter 

 the methods used. Early in the spring, as soon as the condition of the 

 soil will permit, jilow 6 or 8 inches deep. If the trees have been planted 

 as deeply as they should be, this deep plowing will cause them to pro- 



