SUMMER MEETING AT BDTLER, 85 



plants in April, May, June, October, November and December. I 

 prefer spring planting, as we get a full crop next year, and fall setting 

 requires more work the first winter in the way of mulching. Spring 

 planting will do without mulching. I prefer the matted row system. 

 For garden culture set plants eight to twelve inches in row, rows two 

 feet apart. For field culture, rows three and a half ieet to four apart. 

 Mark out with a cord or small plow. Have the rows straight. If the 

 plants are wilted soak in water, or if the ground is dry, pour one pint of 

 water to a plant. If your hand is not strong enough, or many are to 

 be set out, use a dibble or trowel to make a hole six to eight inches 

 deep and three to four inches wide to admit the roots to spread out fan 

 shape. If roots are too long, cut off one-third or more. Set plants a 

 trifle below the crown or deeper than they are set in their beds — press 

 dirt about the roots. 



As soon as weeds make their appearance, or before, plow with 

 a cultivator with hoes set low. Then level the ground with hoe or 

 rake, and pull the runners to the middle of the row. They will soon 

 form a matted row, and occupy the ground instead of weeds. In this 

 way run cultivator a little further from plants every time you culti- 

 vate. Allow rows to get eighteen to twenty four inches wide, and all 

 runners or plants over that distance destroy with a rolling cutter. If 

 rows are too short for horse cultivator, do this work with hand cultiva- 

 tor or hoe. The more cultivation the better the crop, like potatoes. 

 Some strawberry growers run these beds only two or three years, and 

 then plow them up and set new beds. I have been very successful in 

 renewing my old strawberry beds. As soon as the berries are picked, 

 by plowing or cutting rows down to six or eight inches wide, fasten a 

 rolling cutter to plow. Then cut all tops off, till the six or eight inch 

 rows look as if nothing was there. Then in about eight days manure 

 ■with barnyard manure or any well rotted material. Let a great deal 

 of manure fall in the furrow next to the row. Then plow and work 

 ground back to the row and level with a hoe or garden rake. Mulch 

 late in the fall when the ground freezes, one to two inches thick, ac- 

 cording to the material we use. Any material tHat has no seed in will 

 do, and will shade or hide the plants. The germ of the fruit buds is 

 formed in the fall, therefore the great importance of preventing heav- 

 ing of the soil. To do this, sudden freezings and thawings of the sur- 

 face mujt be guarded against and prevented. This is done by merely 

 scattering enough mulch over the surface to shade it. I prefer coarse 

 stable manure, and have used stock yard manure. The winter 

 rains and snows will carry all the strength into the ground, 

 leaving a fine mulch for spring. In spring loosen up this 



