No. 8. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 353 



difference is in the treatment. We find in the State of Pennsylvania 

 a great many old apple trees that have been almost killed by scale; 

 all of the upper branches have been cut off and now the question is 

 how are we going to renew those trees? We don't want to cut them 

 down, because the trunk is still good, and if we can renew it in 

 about three years we will be having apples. 



Here we have a tree just before renewing it. You will notice on 

 this tree that the water sprouts have started ; if those water sprouts 

 had not started we would not dare cut it back the way I am going 

 to cut it back here; it would be necessary to leave in some of the 

 branches. The next slide sho.ws the tree after it has been cut back, 

 and we can make a new tree. If we had not had the water sprouts, 

 it would be necessary to leave in some branches for shade and to 

 prevent sunscald. Unfortunately we have trouble; with some of our 

 nurserymen and oftentimes it is necessary to graft and bud over 

 limbs. 



We want to know a little bit about budding or grafting. Here 

 we have some of the tools used in budding and some cuttings showing 

 the apple and currant cuttings that are made 1o be placed in the 

 spring. Here we have the operation of budding You can bud al- 

 most any kind of a tree and we must bud the peach tree. Grafting 

 does not work well on the peach tree and does not work well on 

 the cherry. I prefer to bud cherries and apricots also, but the other 

 trees we can graft. This is the first operation we make, splitting 

 the bark. You make an up and down cut and then a cut across 

 the top and if it is made about the end of July, the beginning 

 of August when budding should be done you will find that that bark 

 /nil spring loose. Then we cut the bud in this form. The bud looks 

 like that after it has been cut. That bud is taken and slit down 

 in between underneath the bark and then tied with something like 

 raffia, or if you don't have raffia, take cloth of any kind and tie 

 it tightly, leaving the bud exposed, and in about three weeks the 

 bud will have grown fast and next year you cut off the tree above 

 the bud and the bud will start to grow. There we have root grafting, 

 the same operation as what is known as whip grafting. You notice 

 this is your scion. Make the cutting that way and slip it. This 

 is the stock and that scion is slipped into the stock in this way, 

 tied and a little bit of wax placed around the graft and it will grow 

 very easily. The bud need not be waxed. This must be waxed. 

 Here we have several other grafts. This is the cleft graft, the graft 

 we must always use in larger limbs, and you will notice, most of 

 you are acquainted with this graft, you split the limb. 



There is one thing I want to call your attention to, I would 

 always have a bud at the shoulder right there and always be careful 

 to cross the cambium just a little bit. You will notice that these scions 

 are not put in straight up and down, they are crossing just a little 

 bit. If you will remember that, you will never have the least bit 

 of trouble in getting grafts to grow. Over here we have what is 

 known as the bridge graft. Sometimes we have trees girdled and 

 don't want to lose them and can oftentimes save them by putting in 

 a bridge graft. This is the way you make your graft. Both ends 

 are cut a little and then you split the bark here, insert one end 

 her and another there. It is well to place a small tack in each end 



23—6—1915 



