98 STATE POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 



advantage of change of soil. Another advantage: if you get your trees near 

 home they can be set within two or three days after they are taken from the 

 ground, and that is better than to have them shipped 500 miles and run the 

 risk of being dried up in the box. Sometimes they heat in the box, and experi- 

 ence considerable damage in that way. I should say get as near home as possi- 

 ble. I agree wholly with what was said upon the subject of tree planting last 

 week. I find no points to disagree. In setting trees I think it a good practice 

 to set the tree leaning tou'ard the prevailing winds. 



The orchard I set three years ago leans to the northeast. I believe had I 

 leaned the trees to the southwest, they would now be standing straight up. I 

 believe trees should be set early for the best success, yet I have had good luck 

 with late setting. I set one tree after it was in leaf and it did well. I think 

 the less sunshine they have the better. I have heard of two trees transplanted 

 while in blossom, one in the night, the other in the day. The one set in the 

 night did well, and bore its crop of fruit. The fruit all fell from the other, 

 and the tree nearly died. If I had not heard what Mr. Tracy said at the last 

 meeting, I should say choose a cloudy day for setting trees. 



Mr. Tracy — I do not wish to be understood that a cloudy day is a bad one 

 to set trees, but that occasionally there is a cloudy day when the air is more 

 dry than it is sometimes when the sun shines. 



Mr. Parmelee — We had last night an illustration of what Mr. Tracy said 

 about moisture of the atmosphere. The bushes and trees were covered with 

 frost, occasioned by the invisible moisture of the atmosphere. 



There is a practice recommended by some in removing trees, to cut off the 

 tap-root. I think this is an erroneous practice. The tap-root is a provision of 

 nature for the support of the tree until it throws out its side roots, which 

 eventually become the main roots. Our greatest difficulty is, we do not have 

 roots enough, and we want all we can get. I think it is better to dig deeper, 

 80 as to let the tap-root remain on. The tree will dispose of the tap-root as 

 Boon as it gets through with it, the same as trees in the forest dispose of theirs. 

 In reference to using water, there may be two sides to the question. In setting 

 trees in a dry time, I have found it an advantage to use water. If we have 

 many trees to set we cannot always wait for weather to suit. I would not pour 

 water immediately upon the roots. The hole should be dug large enough so 

 that the roots can be put in a natural position. Usually the roots are in such 

 position that the earth needs rounding up in the center. After the tree is 

 placed in position and covered to the crown with earth, then pour one or two 

 pails of water around the outer edge of the hole ; then fill up with loose earth. 

 There should never be enough water so as to come to the surface when filled 

 with earth. Before putting in water the earth should be pressed in contact 

 with all the roots. The ground will not cake unless you let the water come to 

 the surface. If it is covered three inches it will not cake. Sometimes when 

 my trees are dry I bury them a week before setting, covering all, root and 

 branch, with moist earth. 



Mr. Tracy — The greatest objection to the use of water is that where the 

 roots branch out, water, as commonly used, washes the earth from them, form- 

 ing a cavity underneath ; and it is of paramount importance that the earth 

 come in contact with all. No matter what the soil is, water poured on the 

 Burface will cause the ground to cake. So if we do use water, we should be care- 

 ful to cover all with earth. I do not think it needs to be covered as deep aa 

 three inches, — one inch will do. 



