Summer Meeting. 61 



some transportation charges. To offset these we have an earlier crop, 

 freedom from the deadly yellow and rosette, earlier bearing orchards and 

 cheaper lands. We have here in South Missouri a climate not excelled, 

 and rarely equaled for the production of the peach, and our acreage with 

 that of our sister state, Arkansas, is sufficient to grow them for the whole 

 of Xorth America. When our transportation companies come to see 

 that lower rates will give them more profit, ten acres will be grown where 

 one is growing now. We need not hesitate to engage in peach growing 

 to-day, and, all things considered, no better place can be found than the 

 Ozark plateau. A model location is one slightly above the general level 

 and not more rolling than is necessary for good water and air drainage. 

 A northern slope is best and, for a small orchard, should be chosen. But 

 for a commercial orchard we must plant all slopes. N^ever plant on a 

 hardpan. A porous subsoil is absolutely essential. 



Having fixed my location we will prepare the ground. New land 

 is best. Burn the timber on the spot you wish to set your tree if possible. 

 Plow deep, a little too deep is just right. S. W. Gilbert directed us to 

 plow as nearly four feet as possible for strawberries, and the rule will be 

 equally good for peach trees. The value of land for peach orchard is in 

 inverse proportion to the square of the distance from the shipping sta- 

 tion. Lay off the land by running single furrows one way and cross the^^e 

 with deep, wide dead furrows. The fertility of the soil and the probable 

 lifetime of the orchard should determine the distance. I prefer planting 

 farther apart east and west than north and south, as it gives better sun- 

 light. Eighteen to twenty feet by fourteen to sixteen is about right. 

 Wider spaces should be left at intervals for driveways. 



The selection of trees and varieties is all important. Plant none 

 but first class trees. ISTever be tempted by low prices to buy any other. 

 A first class tree is not necessarily a large tree — rather one of medium 

 groAvth with plenty of sound roots. I prune the tops to a stub twenty to 

 twenty-four inches high, and cut the roots back to sound wood. I prefer 

 planting in February and March if the weather is good, and in the fall 

 rather than late in spring. Hub off any superfluous growth on the body 

 of the tree and let all top branches grow unless heavy side growth is 

 being made. In winter or early spring cut all branches back to three or 

 four buds. 



