WINTER MEETING. 147 



CARE OF ORCHARDS. 



BY D. A. ROBNETT, OF COLUMBIA, MO. 



The subject which has been allotted to me is one that includes much of impor- 

 tance, and I fear 1 am not the one who should have been given the task. But as I 

 dielike to shirk from duty, will give some of my ideas, hoping that our older and 

 more experienced members will pay close attention, and after 1 am through they 

 will correct any mistakes I may make. 



I think the size of trees should be medium : that is, of good normal size for the 

 age of the tree. A tree overgrown is like a boy overgrown: it cannot endure 

 hardships and is more subject to disease. 



A tree that has been raised in rich, heavily manured nursery land and pushed 

 until it is over size is sure to be very tender, not having ripened its wood. Again, 

 it is hard to get up enough roots to support a tree so overgrown. The medium 

 size tree will have its wood well ripened and have sufficient roots to continue its 

 growth, and in less than three years will be larger than the overgrown tree set 

 out at the same time and age. 



Now, I would not have you misunderstand me and think I want the culls, for 

 1 do not think we can be too careful about selecting our stock. I, for one, would 

 never have stock at any price if it did not suit me. 



I prefer a one-year-old tree to older ones and would not accept three-year-old 

 trees as a gift were I wanting to set a new orchard. The yearlings can be bought 

 for less money and the freight and boxing is much less, and you can get nearer all 

 the roots up with the one-year-old trees. 



I have used nearly ail two-year-old trees in my setting and have had the bedt 

 of success, and would only recommend the one-year-old trees after a careful study 

 of the advantages they have over the older trees. 



The heads should be formed low, say from two to two and one-half feet high, 

 with one center stem. Never set a tree with a fork in it. The reasons for low 

 heads are many, a few of which I will state : First, it is natural ; second, it is 

 convenient ; third, trees bear much younger; fourth, fruit can be gathered easier ; 

 fifth, trees will not get out of shape like those headed high. More reasons can be 

 brought out in discussion. 



If you allow forks to form in your trees you will never get through with the 

 annoyance, for as long as the tree bears the forks will be splitting and giving 

 away with your fruit. 



To keep heads of trees well formed requires but little pruning if given just 

 right and at the right time, but to try to give a rule would be useless. In pruning 

 never cut out small twigs or spurs growing on larger limbs. Many cut these out 

 thinking they will after awhile make cross limbs, but such is not the case. These 

 are your show for fruit, and many persons destroy their first fruit crops by thus 

 cutting away these fruit spurs. These small twigs also answer as a shade for the 

 body and larger limbs until your trees get large enough to shade themselves. 



To protect trees from rabbits and borers I use wire cloth, making a tube that 

 will encircle the tree and be 12 to 18 inches high. This is a perfect success for 

 keeping ofi" rabbits, but I cannot say as much for it as a protection from Mr. Borer 

 as 1 once did, though 1 am sure it is of great benefit. As long as I cultivated 

 clean, i had no borer, but in last two years I have had a few borers. I take them 

 out in September with a knife, at same time working all grass from trees to keep 

 mice from making nests near my trees. Protect your orchards from all stock by a 

 good fence, and never think of plowing with hogs. 



