WINTER MEETING. 165 



and team, strawberries should be mulched; for this purpose I have found clean 

 wheat straw to be the best ; prairie hay is good, but is too expensive to use, except 

 where it is a spontaneous growth. The second year, as soon as the fruiting sea- 

 son is over, run over the patch with a mowing machine or scythe, and cut off 

 plants and weeds close to the ground. 



For several years I have not removed the straw from between the rows before 

 cultivation, but have worked it all into the soil, which I find to bean excellent 

 plan ; unless the straw has been thoroughly broken up in picking, this cannot 

 always be done, and part of the straw will have to be removed. 



In cultivating the second year, take a one-horse turning plow and run the 

 bar next to the row, cutting them down to about ten inches in width. After this 

 the mode of cultivation should be the same as the first year. Three crops are all 

 that can be raised with profit, and some varieties had better be plowed up after 

 the second. The best plan is to have a new patch come into bearing every year. 

 I have found by experience that strawberries do better if the rows run north and 

 south ; they seem to ripen more regular and are more generally fertilized. 



Varieties— For commercial purposes in this locality, the Bubach No. 5 stands 

 with me at the Lead of the list, and so long as it continues to do well shall make it 

 my principal crop. I am still setting the old Cumberland Triumph ; when the sea- 

 son is too wet it does well in this locality. The Michel's Early 1 only set for fer- 

 tilizing purposes, as it does not do well here. For a late berry the Gandy is the 

 best, but it is such a poor bearer there is little profit in raising it. If settin<? for 

 family use solely, I would add the Jessie and Sharpies?, as their quality is far 

 superior to the above mentioned varieties. I want it understood that what I 

 recommend is only for this locality, where experience has taught me what is most 

 profitable. In a different soil, location and climatic surroundings, the list would 

 perhaps be very different. 



The worst enemies to the strawberry plant are the white grub, rust and crown 

 borer. 1 have never been troubled here with these pests, but in some localities 

 they are very destructive. 



Raspberry — The raspberry should be set on the best ground, heavily manured. 

 It is hardly possible to get ground too rich for the Black Cap raspberry. The reds 

 do not require as rich soil. The ground should be prepared in much the same 

 manner as for strawberries. Mark off" the rows seven feet apart with a one-horse 

 turning plow, and set the plants three feet apart in the row. The tips should be 

 planted early, if possible, before the young sprouts start, as these are often broken 

 off in setting and sometimes fail to sprout again. After the young plants have 

 grown about one foot in height they can be dug up with a spade and set with per- 

 fect safety, but in planting a large patch this method would be rather tedious. 

 The yonng raspberries should have thorough cultivation, and the ground kept as 

 near level as possible. When the young canes are one foot in height, pinch off' the 

 top. 



In the spring of each year cut out the old canes and cut back the laterals of 

 the previous year's growth to within one foot of the main stalk. After the first 

 year the young canes should be pinched back to within two feet of the ground. By 

 this means they will throw out strong laterals and make a stocky growth. After 

 the vines are trimmed in the spring, cultivate nearly up to the time of the berries' 

 ripening. After the fruiting is over, cultivate as long as you can get between the 

 rows. The same plan will apply to the reds, except we never pinch them back in 

 the summer. 



