220 STATE HOETICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



He is the same scientist who has first tried and recommended the use of blue- 

 stone in powder form, in combination with powdered soap-stone, to be applied by- 

 means of bellows on the vines, when the leaves were moist with dew, or after a 

 rain, and it is believed that it is more eflective and adheres better to the leaves 

 than the solution ; it is cheaper, it is easier applied, and in combination with Paris 

 green it is a powerful insecticide, as well as fungicide against apple-leaf rust, apple 

 scab, apple- worm, against peach and plum rot, and the curculio in stone fruit, as 

 well as against injurious insects to grapes, as grape-vine flea-beetle, grape leaf- 

 hopper, or thrip grape leaf-roller, and grasshoppers and grape curculio. This 

 Fostite, as it is called, does prevent, when blown on pear trees, pear leaf-blight. 



Now, allow me to speak a few words on pear twig-blight, or fire-blight. When 

 years ago, it was believed that the sap in very thrifty and succulent shoots soured, 

 the idea of such a supposition of causes was laughed at, even by botanists. Prof. 

 Waite of the Agricultural department, Washington, D. C, found that there are 28 

 difl'erent diseases of the pear-tree, mostly caused by fungus growth, which could 

 be prevented by the use of copper salts, but pear blight, he says, is caused by a 

 microbe— bacterium. Prof. J. M. Clark calls it. These bacteria live in the flowing 

 sap and cause the destruction of the twigs, limbs and bod^ of the tree ; they give 

 us the cause of the disease, but don't say how to cure or prevent it. 



It remained for Dr. Hensly, of Springfield, Mo., to give us an eflective remedy 

 to prevent pear blight (see p. 117,35th Report Missouri State Horticultural Society). 

 Now, doctors apply antiseptics against bacteria in animal bodies, why should not 

 the same be the case in plants or trees? The mercurial salts, as well as ealicylic 

 acid, sulphur and others are antiseptics, and when applied to the flowing sap in a 

 tree are sure death to bacteria, and the tree, freed from the causes, dtvolops a 

 healthy growth again. Last spring I have treated my Bartlett trees to a good 

 dose of calomel, and I never saw a tree grow as healthy, without the least sign of 

 a black leaf, as they did. Thanks to Dr. Hensly for his unselfish motive in commu- 

 nicating this remedy to the pear-growers. 



And now let us sum up on grapes : 1. Selection of a suitable location. 2. 

 Thorough preparation of the plant-bed (soil). 3. Making and laying off" for plant- 

 ing. 4. Selections of plants and varieties. 5. Planting. 6. Tilling, fertilizing 

 and spraying. 7. Pruning (summer and fall or winter). 8. Trellising, and 

 patiently waiting three years before a crop of fruit could be harvested. For the 

 first two years you may raise a crop of strawberries between your young plants, 

 but after that they need all the space for themselves. Bear in mind always, it is 

 essential to have a healthy growth of foliage on your vines, and see to it that they 

 make a vigorous growth ; hence you have to be vigilant. Keep the soil loose and 

 free of weeds, never work it when wet, and loosen your ground after every rain 

 or spell of rains; use fungicides and insecticides freely and judiciously, early to 

 late in season, and your labor and outlays will be rewarded in due time bounti- 

 fully. Kead, study and digest, attend horticultural societies and farmers' insti- 

 tutes ; love your vines as you would your pet colt or any other of your domestic 

 pets, and you won't fail in your occupation as a grape-grower. 



Your old vines will need your close attention, too. Keep them in a vigorous 

 growth by a free application of fertilizers and thorough tillage ; prune short, rub 

 ofi" all the loose bark, it is a harbor for fungus, spores and insects ; rub all of the 

 growing shoots below your bearing canes to the ground; summer prune timely 

 and judiciously and apply Bordeaux mixture or Fostite early and late. If some 

 of your old vines decay, replace them by a young plant or by laying a neighboring 

 cane in the ground along your row; it will make a strong vine in the first season 

 and bring fruit the next. 



