148 STATE rOMOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 



from twelve to twenty feet, being reconiincnded. I like iibont eighteen feet. 

 In laying out the orcliard, each variety should be arranged in a block by itself 

 for convenience in gathering the fruit, and also for the purpose of allowing one 

 or more varieties to be cultivated witliout disturbing tlie others, as may some- 

 times be found desirable after tlie trees come into bearing, In planting, care 

 sliould be taken not to leave the roots uncovered or exposed to tlie sun and wind, 

 as we would avoid leaving a jiet fish out of water. Set the trees perpendicular, 

 instead of leaning in the direction of the prevailing wind, as is frequently done. 

 I have seen many orchards leaned in that way in whicli nearly all the trees were 

 sooner or later cither blown up to a perpendicular, or so as to lean in the oppo- 

 site direction. Hence, if they must come to tluit position, wliy not set them 

 so at first, and thus avoid tlie strain and breaking of roots necessarv to allow 

 them to assume a position in which the wind can })ass over them and meet the 

 least possible resistance? 



CULTIVATION AXU FliUXlXG. 



The cultivation of the orchard for the first few years should be thorough 

 during the first half of the season, and then should be gradually discontinued, 

 and during the latter part of the season should cease altogether, in order to 

 give the new growth time to thoroughly mature, and thus be well prepared to 

 stand the winter. If it is desired, corn or other hoed crops may be grown on 

 the ground, provided the soil is rich enough, otherwise each crop will take 

 nourishment from the soil which the trees will need, and hence it must be re- 

 turned in some form or they will suffer. With regard to pruning, I would say, 

 first of all, head the trees low. Just how low cannot be correctly stated, as 

 what would be low for a spreading tree might be high for one of u])right 

 growth. I would also advocate "heading back," as it is called, that being the 

 system recommended by most of the leading writers on the subject, and also 

 the one which in my experience has given the best satisfaction. 



Nearly every season of the year has been advocated by different persons as 

 the best time to prune, but if any one can form an intelligent opinion from 

 reading all that has been written on the subject I would like to know the 

 process by which he was enabled to arrive at a conclusion. I have never experi- 

 mented very thoroughly in the matter, but have generally pruned most during 

 the warm days in winter, as I find more time for such work than at any other 

 season of the year, and have failed to see that it was not about as good a time 

 to prune as any other. 



There is one process to which I have not alluded, which would hardly come 

 under the head of cultivation, neither would I call it pruning, although it is 

 done with both a hoc and knife. I refer to taking out borers. This must be 

 attended to not less than once a year, and twice would be still bettor, if good 

 healthy trees are desired. Do not trifle with any supposed remedies, but dig 

 them out and kill them. If this is practiced carefully while the trees are 

 young, there will be but very little injury from this cause. They do not appear 

 to do so much damage after the trees become older. Whoever attem[)ts to 

 grow a good peach orchard will meet with many dillicultios, but if he perse- 

 veres, any thorough care and attention which he may bestow uiwn it will be 

 likely to meet a reward in the })rolonged lives of the trees and increased yield 

 of delicious fruit. 



