170 STATE POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 



to fix up ill shape for growth. If a tree could he moved with every fiber and 

 root hair there would be as little dancrer of removal in summer us during its 

 dormant condition ; but it is impossible to remove a tree of any size without 

 parting with a large ])ortion of the roots, and the want of water is immediately 

 felt with the tree in full leaf. 



TIME FOR TRANSPLANTING. 



The question then arises, when is the best time for general transplanting of 

 orchard and ornamental trees? 



A jirominent member of the State Pomological Society four years ago, after 

 giving his experience of one year, recommended unqualifiedly the month of 

 June. He had ordered a large supply of trees and slirubs, whicli by some ac- 

 cident were delayed on the road from the East and arrived very late — about 

 June 10th. Almost the whole lot ^vere in leaf and many plants in bloom. 

 lie planted tlicm out in the night, and a rainy one at that. Everything grew, 

 hence the conclusion that the time for successful removal of trees is in June 

 when in leaf. This was altogether too hasty a generalization. The trees had 

 been packed in very wet moss, and under the influence of the warm days had 

 thrown out roots into the moss, absorbed lots of moisture and leaved out. The 

 plants were in a fine growing condition, with every part in -working order, and 

 having enough water to drink, liad not as yet felt tlie want of food, exce])t that 

 which they could get from the air. They were ];)ut into the ground under the 

 most proi)itious circumstances, with everytliing ready to go at work making a 

 living. Not so witli a tree dug up and transplanted in the same season, for its 

 working fibres would be sacrificed, and the tree would die before it could estab- 

 lish itself in the new conditions. If trees are to be planted out in fall or 

 spring, there are many things to be taken into account before deciding which 

 of the seasons to choose. In a climate where tlie ground freezes very little, 

 and the spring time begins with the earth and air about the same i)eriod, it ia 

 safe, generally, to plant in the fall, while in a country where the frost pene- 

 trates to a considerable depth the practice would be questionable, because the 

 warm air would stimulate tlie buds into action before the condition of the 

 roots would warrant it. Another consideration with fruit trees is to be looked 

 after. If the trees are purchased in a milder cHmate than that in which they 

 are to stand, the probability is that the nurseryman will strip ofl! the leaves be- 

 fore they are fully ripened so us to forward tliem in season. T'he result will 

 be that the trees, not having fully completed their ripening process, will be in 

 tlic poorest possible condition to withstand the exposure of a severe winter. It 

 is said often that if trees are put in the autumn tliey become thoroughly estab- 

 lished, ready for work as soon as spring opens. Tliis may be so, but the risk of 

 tlieir dying while getting established is one to be thought of in making a decis- 

 ion. I would in case of the transplantation of nursery stock into the orchard 

 always, if possible, have the trees either heeled in, or, at least, root-pruned in 

 the fall, so as to get the cut surfaces to granulating preparatory to shooting out 

 feeders in the spring. This is quite a point gained. If the trees can be 

 planted out where they will be well protected, there is little danger of putting 

 out in the fall, aside from the unequal starting of root and brancli in the 

 spring. But the experience of our severe winters has taught us that there is 

 no safety for trees lacking in vitality outside of a cellar or a snowbank. 



To sum up the matter in a word of recommendation, I will say, i)lant young 

 trees with as good fibrous roots as possible, and plant them generally in the 

 spring. 



