Winter Meeting. 343 



Or, if the landscape architect has prepared plans for grounds and 

 the owner of the grounds or the nurseryman substitute plants, then you 

 must not expect as good results as if the plans were carried out in de- 

 tail. 



Stereotyped sameness can be seen in planting of many city homes. 

 This is due to one of three causes: (i) Copying others; (2) limited 

 nursery stock to sell; (3) no taste, but one idea for all. The result of 

 such work is much to be regretted, for the pretended artist first destroys 

 every natural feature before installing his freak idea, and natural 

 features once destroyed can never be replaced. 



In every branch of science there is a reason for all things. So in 

 landscape architecture there should be a reason for the location of every 

 tree on the lawn, every curve in the drive and every bed of flowers. 



Originality in planting is art. If we save and improve the natural 

 features, by planting trees and shrubs in keeping with the surroundings, 

 if it is well done, then others say, "It looks just like it had always 

 been so." 



Next we must decide whether nursery-grown trees at a little ad- 

 vance in price are cheaper than woods-pulled trees at a little less. 



The first have fiber branching roots, well formed heads, are easy 

 to transplant and are more likely to grow. 



The woods-pulled trees have a few long roots usually cut back 

 too far and a top so out of shape that it, too, is cut back into pole form, 

 and it is only a matter of time until decay starts in at the top, and 

 where the branches grow around this top the wind breaks them off as 

 far down as the centre is decayed, because the shell around the decayed 

 spot is too weak to support the branch, so the tree is ruined. Never 

 accept a pole tree. 



We have learned something about what we should know to be 

 able to make a proper selection of shade trees. Now let us consider 

 something of the care we should use in digging and planting them. 



1st — Secure roots enough to support the top. 



2nd — Prune out enough limbs to equal the root left. 



3rd — Prune smoothly every broken or bruised root. 



4th — In pruning, cut root so the cut is down and out from the 

 trunk. This assures contract with the soil, while the usual method of 

 cutting up and out lets the soil settle away from the root and no fiber 

 roots start where an air space is. 



5th — Make holes large enough and never twist roots into hole. 



6th — Fill every crevice between the roots with good soil. Air 

 spaces are the direct causa of many losses in transplanting trees. 



