o 



12 State Horticultural Society. 



sides, and grown good orchards, but it is much more expensive and 

 you take greater chances, especially where you have hired labor. 

 If you do all the work yourself, it may then be a different proposi- 

 tion. As to different slopes and timber protection, I have not seen 

 any of much value, but there should be good air drainage. As to 

 the northern and eastern slopes, we have had as much damage by 

 hard winters on these as other slopes. What seems best one time 

 proves to be the worst at other times. In my opinion, the man 

 with family orchard should get No. 1 first-class trees ; for commer- 

 cial orchards. No. 2 first-class, two-year-old trees, 4 to 5 feet high. 

 With the experienced man who thoroughly understands pruning, I 

 believe extra, select No. 3 trees will make as good, if not better, or- 

 chards; but without experience, he had better stick to first-named 

 qualities. I prefer low-headed trees about 24 inches high. I would 

 recommend trees from the nearest reliable nursery — emphasize the 

 word reliable if you sacrifice the word nearest. In setting, have 

 tried both plowing furrows and digging holes. I prefer digging to 

 plowing. Plow as deep as possible, but dig holes large enough for 

 roots and cut all roots off down to 12 inches long. 



The depth to set trees varies according to ground ; if rolling or 

 washy, plant from 2 to 3 inches deeper than trees growing in nur- 

 sery on fairly level land, but plant same depth as in nursery on land 

 that is flat and w^here water stands. I have planted on top of the 

 ground by banking and plowing the ground around. We planted 

 one orchard of about 70 acres, and about 2,000 trees were planted 

 on swampy, flat prairie land with good success. Large, firm, 

 healthy trees are now growing and are 11 years old. If you want 

 trees to stand firm and not blow over, plant shallow and do not 

 throw much dirt to trees, and if to the contrary, plant deep. \Vhen 

 a tree bow^s back and forth and works a hole close around the tree, 

 you may be sure of that tree being planted too deep. I would much 

 rather see the roots of a tree exposed 6 inches out from the tree 

 than set too deep, yet I do not approve of either. 



One spring we set about 120 acres of orchard, and where we 

 furrowed our men got many trees too deep. So next spring we 

 raised and reset them and since have carefully watched planting 

 in furrows and deep setting. The following fall we dug the holes 

 and set shallow about 100 acres; threw about 12 inches of dirt 

 around each tree to hold it in position and keep the tree from freez- 

 ing out of ground. The following spring we took the mound down 

 and had fine success. As to which is best, spring or fall setting, 

 circumstances and conditions determine that. The pruning can 



