SUMMER MEETING. 77 



should be broken off, in order to force the growth into the limbs or 

 laterals, for on these the most and best fruit is produced the following 

 season. These limbs or laterals should be allowed to grow at will. 



Third year — The leading canes left to grow the previous year are 

 now pruned for fruit and should produce a full crop of grapes. Vines 

 which have made a strong growth are allowed two or three canes and 

 these are cut back to four or five feet in length. Less vigorous vines 

 are confined to one or two canes. All other canes are cut back to two 

 buds, which are then called " spurs," and these spurs furnish new canes 

 for next year's fruiting. Those limbs or laterals on the canes which 

 are strong enough, say of about the size of a lead pencil, are cut back 

 to two buds. The canes, after pruning, should be securely tied to the 

 wires, spreading them out fan shape, and curving the upper end of 

 cane by tying it a foot or two horizontally along the middle or upper 

 wire, according to the length of the cane. The cultivation of this and 

 the succeeding years should be so regulated that through the blossom- 

 ing period the vines can be left undisturbed, as a check to or undue 

 stimulus of the growth through cultivation during this time may inter- 

 fere with perfect fertilization, or setting of fruit. During the growing 

 season carefully tie up all canes and limbs. Allow as many new canes 

 to grow as in the previous season, with sometimes an extra one added* 

 Eemove all superfluous suckers or sprouts as soon as they appear. 

 These generally start from near the ground. Sometimes two canes 

 start from one joint in which case the weaker is removed, as are also 

 such which show no fruit, excepting, of course, the canes intended for 

 next year's fruiting. The ends of all new canes are broken off, as in 

 the preceding year, and the fruiting limbs are treated in the same way. 



Summer pruning has been abandoned by me as involving too much, 

 and I might say, almost useless labor. Do not let your vines over- 

 bear at any time, but especially not during the first crop year. It is 

 like killing the goose that lays the golden eggs. If too much fruit has 

 set, some of it should be removed, the smallest bunches being selected 

 for this. As a guide for the beginner, I will say that 25 to 30 bunches 

 is the limit for a strong vine to carry the first season, and weaker ones 

 should be relieved in proportion. As the vines grow older and stronger, 

 80 to 40, and even 50 bunches, are allowable on very strong vines. I 

 have, on an arbor, a Concord vine which was deprived of 120 bunches 

 before blossoming, and today, in counting those left, I found 130 bunches 

 more which have set fruit. More than half of these will be taken off in 

 a few days. 



The first crop of grapes is rarely attacked by rot and is also less 

 liable to the attack of insects than older vines. But in the years fol- 



