184 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



keep the trees severely cut l-fick. 18x20 feet is n good distance, or even IGx 

 20; but if you intend to let tlieni run out at will, and merely keep the cen- 

 ter trimmed, 20x24 feet is close enough. Both methods have their advo- 

 cates among successful fruitgrowers, but we favor the closer setting and 

 cutting back. 



J/odc of planting. — After the ground has been thoroughly. prepared, if 

 you have decided to set 18x20 feet, take a one-horse marker, made light 

 and with the frame well up from the ground, that it may be more easily 

 controlled by the driver, and set the markers ten feet ai)art. Set a row 

 of stakes where you want yoiir first row of trees, and near enough 

 together to detect any variation from a straight line. Then mark as you 

 would for corn, going twice across the field for each row of trees. Mark 

 the field l)oth ways. A rai'eful man will lay out a field in this way bet- 

 ter than by any other method we have tried. If you want the trees six- 

 teen or eighteen feet one way, set the markers one half the distance you 

 want the trees. One advantage of this method is that you have the marks 

 across the field to guide in setting each tree, and you can easily detect any 

 variation from a straight line. 



Take a light stone-boat or slide, with boards one foot or more wide at 

 each side and at back end. Put a good armful of straw in back end and 

 bottom, and you can pack in two or three hundred trees. Sprinkle them 

 thoroughly, and while wet sprinkle some dry earth or dust on the roots. 

 Keep them covered carefully with blankets and carry some water to 

 sprinkle them if they show signs of dryness, but do not pour water into 

 the holes Avhen setting the trees. 



Four men to dig holes and set the trees, one man to distribute trees and 

 boss the job, and a horse to draAv the boat of trees, will easily set 1,000 

 trees per day, so that every tree that is fit to set will live. 



The land of trees and where to f/et them. — AVe would if possible get a good, 

 strong-growing, thrifty tree (not overgrown) in preference to the smaller 

 sizes, being careful to see that they are well matured. The so-called June- 

 budded trees sold by nurserymen w<! have often found to be only small, 

 stunted trees of the same age of the larger ones. We much prefer good 

 fall-budded trees to June-budded, anvway. 



In selecting varieties I would be governed largely by the lay of the 

 land to be set. If inclined in all directions, as is often the case with land 

 we wish to set, I would put the early and strong-budded varieties, such as 

 Early Michigan, Lewis, etc., on the earliest and warmest ground, for, if 

 set on the northern slope, they are likely to be a few days later in ripen- 

 ing, thus coming into competition with the large yellow varieties. I 

 would also put the late varieties, as Smock, etc., on the sunny exposure, 

 as on a northern exposure they often lack color and are too long in matur- 

 ing. Crawfords I have always set on a northern slope, and they are 

 being set in Kent county quite extensively, and are still one of our most 

 profitable peaches. Barber, a sort of improved Chili, and a little 

 earlier, is quite largely called for this year. Kalamazoo is proving 

 to be one of our best peaches. 



Although it seems a xevy simple thing to propagate peach trees, 

 it is very seldom we see a farmer or commercial fruitgrower have good 

 success with them, and altliougli I have no axe to grind I would recom- 

 mend purchasing of a reliable nurseryman. 



