38 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



Prof. Slayton: Are you troubled any with yellow rust, on the leaf? 

 A. I have found in some cases single plants affected, and when we have 

 anything of that description, we remove the entire plant and burn it up. 



Q. Do you use a plow at all? A. No, we find that that ridges up the 

 soil, and leaves it uneven. If properly cultivated with the Planet jr., or 

 Ajax, or any improved cultivator, you can keep the soil in proper con- 

 dition, and it is always level. 



Mr. McClatchie: Have you tried planting in squares instead of rows? 

 If so, why do you prefer rows? A. We can get more fruit from rows 

 (matted rows); and another thing one cane helps support another. It 

 requires a little more work. We usually go over the whole thing the 

 first year and remove all the weeds that we can not get with the cultiva- 

 tor. After that the bushes shade the ground so that the weeds never 

 grow very high, nor the grass either. When grass appears, the timothy 

 or clover, we go over it. 



Q. What fertilizer do you use? A. Common barnyard manure I have 

 found is the best. 



Mr. McClatchie : Do you recommend that the red raspberry be raised 

 in matted rows? A. Yes, sir. 



Prof. Slayton : Do you shorten back the canes as they grow during the 

 summer? A. As soon as the cane, in the black-cap bed, is a foot high, we 

 pinch it off. 



Q. How about the red? A. I should leave the red alone. In the little 

 paper 1 had, I referred to a hail storm the last week in May. The berries 

 were set and in blossom. The suckers on the leaders were out, probably, 

 from two to three feet, and there was a heavy northeast wind which swept 

 down under the rows and cut many of these off on the north side. These 

 bushes naturally sent out their laterals, and those were the ones that 

 froze, and last summer they were almost a failure. 



Prof. Sla^'ton: At our Adrian meeting some one advocated no sum- 

 mer pinching. 



Mr. Conrath: That applies to what I have just said in regard to reds, 

 I would leave them alone; but the black, pinch back by all means. 



Q. At what time do you remove the old wood? A. As soon as the fruit 

 is off, and we burn at once. That has been our method, and we have 

 kept exceedingly free from disease. Prof. Taft visited us, and said, " You 

 have done well." 



Q. What do you find the most convenient way for removing the old 

 wood? A. We have a hook made from old files. They are heated and 

 bent. It is hard metal. The hook is like a small crescent, about two 

 inches on the outside and about an inch on the inside. We keep it sharp. 



Q. This is attached to a handle? A. Yes, sir, so that a man standing 

 can remove the wood. The handle is 3^ feet long. It is less tiresome 

 and does the work as well. 



Q. Where the black-caps have not been pinched back at all, they have 

 long limbs. Would you cut those back? A. Yes, sir. 



Q. How much? A. We are a little more severe on our one-year-olds 

 than the two-year-olds, and of course we make it a plan to pinch them 

 off from the beginning. A plant pinched off would be in different con- 

 dition from one not pinched off, and on our x)lants that are pinched we cut 

 the laterals back to six or eight inches, and if a cane has grown out and 



