170 . STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



I think often, at these meetings we feel that great obstacles are com- 

 ing up before us which require a great deal of investigation, and I 

 imagine, as the years go by we shall find it all the while a little more 

 difficult to make a success, if we measure success by dollars and cents. 



In regard to the prices of fruits, it has been suggested here that there 

 is always an opportunity to dispose of fine fruit. Now, the packing of 

 California fruit is as good today as it was years ago. It is put up the 

 same all the way through and is as attractiA-e as ever; and yet of late Cali- 

 fornia fruit has been a drug on the market, notwithstanding its beautiful 

 appearance. The fact is that that kind of fruit sometimes becomes a 

 drug. I don't believe we need to paint any rosj' clouds for fruitgrowers 

 in Berrien county, and yet I believe the possibilities are unmeasured. Go 

 into any township you choose, you will find hundreds of acres as well 

 adapted to pear culture as other hundreds already devoted in that way. 

 The possibilities are great, and there are great opportunities for the 

 young people of our county to set out pear orchards; and with diligence, 

 industry, and application of brain and muscle, I see no reason why pear 

 culture should not be a success in the future, as successful as any other 

 line of fruitgrowing. 



A w^ord or two, now, in regard to soil and location. I used to think 

 that the ideal pear soil was a heavy c\i\j. I have changed my opinion 

 on that point. Perhaps I am wrong now. In my opinion now, the ideal 

 soil is a sandy loam, a lighter soil. I believe with this soil we get better 

 pears and better results; and j^et there are many good orchards on the 

 hard soil. I think the mellow soil is particularly desirable for dwarf 

 trees. The standard pear will do much better than the dwarf on the 

 hard soil. Sometimes a heavy rain wets the soil and a heavy wind comes. 

 The trees are not well rooted there, and they are swept back and forth, 

 and they are not a success on the hard soil. 



In regard to preparation of the soil, I would say, if you have a clay 

 soil, I would plow and subsoil, work up the ground deeply. With the 

 lighter soil, it will not require so much preparation in that line. In all 

 cases I w^ould avoid ground which has a good deal of water in the subsoil. 

 The standard pear roots deeply, and if the soil is inclined to be wet you 

 should underdrain. A cold, damp subsoil is bad. 



The distance for planting, not less than 20 feet — perhaps 22 or 24 feet. 



In regard to pruning, I would say that there is a great difference in 

 the different varieties in regard to that. The Kieffer, Howell, and others 

 of that kind need exercise of great care and good judgment in pruning, if 

 you wish the ideally shaped tree. With all varieties the first few years 

 are the essential ones if you desire to get fine trees. In pruning a pear 

 tree, the Kieffer tree for instance, be careful not to allow any very long 

 limbs to form, and after you have once commenced pruning, follow it up 

 several years by cutting back a third or a half of the preceding year's 

 growth, and follow around the tree, leaving one central shoot. The next 

 year go over your trees some time in March or A])ril, again, with your 

 jack-knife. r3o your pruning with your knife. I have followed that 

 process of pruning three years now, and I think the Kieffers are very 

 handsome trees indeed. They have a wider and finer top than j'ou will 

 have unless you follow some such plan of pruning. I have suggested that 



