24 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



scions firmly in place. Cover the end of the stock and the splits, also the 

 upper ends of the scions, with wax, and the job is done. 



The operation of side-grafting takes readily on all fruit trees except the 

 peach, and is used by traveling grafters. The objections are that the ends 

 of the stock often do not heal over completely, leaving a place where decay 

 sets in that increases with the age of the tree. This is very likely to occur 

 when the limbs o^jerated upon are large. One very common error is to do 

 this work too high in the tree. This is universal with traveling grafters, 

 as they go up high to find plenty of thrifty limbs of suitable size to work, 

 and that the grafts may grow more readily. As a result, the new head 

 must be very high from the ground, and we have a very ungainly tree and 

 are put to much more trouble to get the fruit. Instead, select small or 

 medium-size limbs as near the ground as possible, in which to set the 

 scions. If none suitable are to be found, go into the tree and cut it back 

 heavily. A large number of suckers will start. Thin these out, leaving 

 only enough to make a new head. Then, the next spring, set the scious on 

 these. Whip or cleft graft as you think best. I prefer this method 

 always when the tree is not in a very thrifty condition. 



The third process, crown-grafting, can be used wherever cleft-grafting 

 would be practiced, and can be used at roots or crotches where the stock 

 would not split readily. It can only be done after the sap has started so 

 the bark will separate from the tree. The stock is not split, but instead a 

 one-sided wedge is made of the scion, with a shoulder at the upper end of 

 the cut. The bark is then opened a little on the stock and the wedge end 

 of the scion is pushed down between the bark and wood, letting the 

 shoulder rest on- the end of the stock. Two or even four scions can be set 

 around the end of the stock if it is large. When grafting in this way, the 

 scions must be tied in as well as waxed, otherwise, when they are growing, 

 the wind may blow them out. It will be necessary, the first season, to look 

 over the graft two or three times, and see that the bands do not become 

 too tight. This style of grafting is to be preferred to cleft-grafting. There 

 is no split in the stock where water may enter, and rot is prevented. By 

 using several scions, the end heals over more readily. It is not so rapid a 

 method, and the first needs a little more attention. 



Veneer-grafting is of so little importance to the common propagator 

 that but little time need be given to it. The only place where it is of value 

 is in grafting small plants with large piths. Simply cut off the end of the 

 stock and take a thin slice off the side, about an inch long. Then make a 

 shouldered cut on the side of the scion, of the same length, taking care not 

 to cut through the hard wood into the soft center. The two cuts are 

 joined, letting the shoulder of the scion rest on the end of the stock. Tie 

 in place and wax thoroughly if above ground. It is a slow process and the 

 scions are very likely to become misplaced. No matter what mode is 

 practiced, the work should be looked over occasionally the first season, to 

 see that sprouts do not start on the stock and take all the strength. If 

 tied in, the bands may have to be loosened once or twice during the 

 season. 



On cleft or crown grafts, the wax may crack and expose the end of the 

 limb, so look them over. In top-grafting large trees I prefer to do the 

 whole job at once, rather than take two or three years as is often recom- 

 mended. Should any fail that are needed, be sure to replace them the 

 next season. But if the tree is large, take two seasons after the grafting to 

 remove the remainder of the old top. In many cases, where two scions 



