PROCf^EDlNGS OF THE WINTER MEETING. 25 



are set in, the same limb, and both grow, one should be removed after a 

 year or two. 



PROCESSES OF BUDDING. 



Budding belongs more particularly to the nurseryman or propagator 

 than to the fruitgrower, as it is a process adapted only to small stocks; 

 but it is such a simple operation that there is no reason why the latter 

 should not be able to do it when necessary. It is a cheaper and more 

 rapid method of propagation than grafting. The only tools needed are 

 two knives, one heavy for trimming the stocks and the other thin and very 

 sharp for cutting and inserting the buds. Budding knives, also, usually 

 have one end of the handle shaped to use in lifting the bark of the stock. 

 Some material for tying the bud is needed. Common cotton yarn can be 

 used for the purpose, but basswood bark or raffia is usually ased. The 

 latter is now furnished very cheaply by seedsmen. A pound is sufficient 

 for 2,500 stocks. Budding consists of taking a bud with a piece of bark 

 from the scion of the variety we wish to use and inserting it under the 

 bark on the side of the stocii in a T-shape cut, being careful to cut just 

 through the bark. This is usually lifted a little so the bud will slip in 

 easily and still fit closely. The cut is then tied down firmly with the band. 

 As already stated, the stock must be in a thrifty, growing condition, so 

 the bark will separate readily fram the wood; but on the other hand, it 

 must be so near the end of the season that the growth of the stock will 

 not flood or overgrow the bud and kill it. In from ten to twenty days after 

 the buds are set, the bands should be removed. This can be rajpidly done 

 on all ordinary stocks by running a sharp knife across the band on the side 

 of the stock opposite the bud. It will then open with the growth of the 

 stock and remove itself. The stocks will need no further attention during 

 the fall except to see that they are situated so that no water shall stand on 

 or around them during the winter. In the spring, just as the buds begin 

 to grow, cut off the stock just above the bud. My rule is to cut just where 

 I made the cross cut in budding. Do not, however, unless the plants are 

 very valuable, cut it off some inches above, as is often advised, and then 

 <;ut close later in the season. It is very hard work to take off the dry stub 

 you will find at the second cutting, and the only object is to prevent the 

 bud drying out from cutting too close the first time. 



Sometimes, when a variety is new and it is desired to increase it rapidly, 

 spring budding is resorted to, with dormant scions, the same as we use in 

 grafting. In this way we have to use only one bud instead of three or four, 

 as in a graft, on each stock. Of course it can only be done after growth 

 starts. Thin as soon as the bud has grown in. The top of the stock is 

 removed as before, and the bud starts to grow at once. This method is not 

 often necessary. The object of removing the top of the stock is to throw the 

 whole growth into the bud. There will probably a lot of suckers start up 

 from the stock below the bud. These must be removed. This may have to 

 be done two or three times during the season, until the bud shall become 

 large enough to take the whole strength of the root. 



The proper season for budding our fruit, is: plums, latter part of July; 



pears and cherries, first to middle of August; apples, any time in August, 



and peaches, middle of August to middle September. At the end of one 



or two seasons, according to kind and growth, the buds will make trees fit to 



4 



