SUMMER MEETING. 57 



full fruiting capacity, of a variety having strong, natural vigor, and capable of 

 withstanding high feeding. 



Time of setting: This varies with the variety. All that is requisite is 

 sufficient length of time to elapse before the severity of the weather causes 

 plant growth to cease for the development of one or two good, vigorous fruit 

 crowns. Allow any runners starting to make root, and late in the fall, just 

 before applying the mulch between the rows, remove all but the plants first 

 set. Set plants two feet between rows, and eight to ten inches between plants, 

 in the row. The culture of this class is in single stools, not cutting runners; 

 rather removing all runners taking root late in the fall. 



This comprises the distinctive differences between the selection of and culture 

 of the plants, and the remainder of the paper will apply to the culture in 

 general. 



Preparation of the ground. — Select land capable of being finely pulver- 

 ized, moist, not wet, inclining to be heavy— that is such as will become firm 

 about the roots. Special care should be taken to have an abundance of plant 

 food well mixed with the soil. Well rotted cow manure, at least one year old, 

 is one of the best forms of plant food. Spread on the surface of the land at 

 the rate of one ton, or 35 bushels to each 12 feet square of surface, this being 

 at the rate of 75 cords of manure to the acre. This may seem to some almost 

 wasteful, yet the demand of the fruit upon the food in the soil must be met, 

 and 15,000 to 10,000 quarts of berries to the acre, require intense culture. 

 Whatever manner is employed should be of such a nature as to make a slow, 

 vigorous plant growth to perfect the best possible fruit crowns, not only for 

 fruiting the next spring, but also to withstand the rigor of the winter. For 

 early spring setting, prepare the soil the fall before, to allow time for the plant 

 food to become incorporated in the soil. For later set plants, prepare early in 

 the spring, and raise a crop of peas on the ground, then prepare for setting 

 plants. 



Cultivation. — As soon after setting plants as the new leaves begin to grow 

 in the crown of the plant, fighting weeds should commence. Never disturb 

 the soil deeply, use the garden rake mostly. Place runners in position by 

 hand, loosening the soil for a little space where the runners are to be stuck. 



When to cease culture. — By culture is here intended any disturbance of 

 soil in general, to interfere with the so-called fruiting roots. Within from 

 two to four weeks before the final setting in of winter a new series of roots 

 designed to feed the fruit commences to form. These grow near the surface, 

 .hence it is safest to abandon culture except on the surface fully two weeks 

 before time for the early frosts. 



As to mulch.— Apply liberally between rows as soon as the first severe frosts 

 take place ; this acts as a protection to the fruiting roots. At the setting in of 

 winter cover the plants lightly to protect the foliage from the winds and sun. 



Care in the spring of fruiting. — Do not disturb the soil except pulling 

 of any weeds appearing while yet small. After all danger of frosts is past 

 remove the mulch from over the plant, allowing it to remain between the rows. 



Thus in a few words the request of your Secretary is complied with. The 

 word amateur is defined as a person who has a love for the thing he undertakes. 

 This attachment will lead to treating each plant set as an individual thing, not 

 taking the bed as a whole, and herein is the success of efforts to obtain straw- 

 berries to "crow over." The amateur motto should be, compel, if possible, 

 each plant to fruit to its utmost capacity, remembering the old saying "great 

 oaks from little acorns grow." 



