VARIOUS NATIONAL SOCIETIES. 117 



one-fourth that size. This falling off is not caused by continual cropping on 

 same ground, for the fa lure is equally great when land that has lain in so 1 for 

 a number of years is used. Whether this bad state of affairs is wholly or 

 partially caused by the prevalence of " black spot," I am not prepared to say, 

 and would like, if time permits, to hear an expression of opinion on the sub- 

 ject. Leaving the causes of the trouble out of the question, I am satisfied 

 the in-door treatment will insure better and more uniform results. 



A very important question to consider is, " What varieties should be grown?" 

 There are many grand roses which are not suitable for market. The requisite 

 •qualities in a rose for the purpose are, good habit and freedom of bloom, with 

 good constitution and vigorous growth, so that it may not take too long to get 

 a good sized plant; the addition of fragrance is, of course, always desirable. 

 1 will give, further on, a partial list of the varieties which have proved to be 

 the best, first detailing the methods of their cnlture as far as I have had ex- 

 perience and opportunity to observe. 



It is not necessary to go into the details of propagating, further than to say 

 that the best way to get healthy plants is to take cuttings of well-ripened 

 wood (that grown under glass will usually root easiest), in November, or early 

 in December. At this time the plant may be cut back, and the primings saved 

 for this purpose. If the largest flowers are desired, prune closely, put the cut- 

 tings in cold house with slight bottom heat, maintained by three or four feet 

 of fresh tan under the sand bed ; it will be found of advantage to have one or 

 two hot-water or steam pipes running through the tan at a depth of two feet to 

 supply a little additional heat, which should be turned on as soon as the callous 

 is well formed. The main point is to keep the top of the cutting as cool as 

 possible without freezing. By the first of March the cuttings should be well 

 rooted, and may be potted off and put into a cool house or frame : shade 

 for a few days, and give air and water as required, until the houses are emptied 

 by spring sales, when the young plants will be in a condition to shift into four 

 ' or five-inch pots, or to be planted out on benches, which should be done, if 

 ■ possible, not later than June 15. In preparing the soil, use five parts fibrous 

 loam, one part well-rotted cow or horse manure, one part pure ground bone, 

 and, if the soil be heavy, one part sharp sand or rotten micaceous rock. 



Where the soil is of a heavy, clayey nature (which is usually good for roses) 

 the addition of finely ground oyster shells (carbonate of lime) in the proportion 

 of one part to twenty-five of the whole mass will be found useful; not so much 

 irom the food it contains as in keeping the soil sweet. Any of the steam mar- 

 ble-dust mills will grind the shells at a cost not exceeding $5 a ton. Burnt 

 earth is also valuable and may be used in the proportion of one-quarter of the 

 whole. If the plants are potted, they should be plunged half way to the rim in 

 old refuse slops or other light material, taking care not to over-water. Unless 

 great care is taken in watering, it is better to dispense with the plunging. 

 Syringing and watering should be regularly attended to and the plants kept 

 staked up. By Oct. 1, they should be from one to four feet high, according to 

 variety. Those in pots may then be put outside to make room for a crop of 

 chrysanthemums or other fall plants, and should, after being ripened by the 

 frost and air, be plunged in frames or put into cold houses until it is time to 

 force them into bloom. While in a dormant state little water is required. 

 Those grown on benches should be potted the middle of October and treated 

 likewise. 



In planting out, it may be well to put some of the sorts, such as La France, 



