120 STATE HOETICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



Mr. Tailby takes his carnation cuttings about March 1, and places them in 

 six-inch pans, three and one-half inches deep, and puts a layer of coal ashes in 

 the bottom beneath the sand. The cuttings are short jointed, and one pair of 

 fully developed leaves. Keep them in water until dibbled in, give a good 

 watering when set, and place pans in cool, shady position; when well cal- 

 loused, give air, and as soon as rooted shift to a more exposed position to 

 harden. 



He plants in boxes about one and one-half inches apart, using boxes about 

 three iuches deep, with about one inch drainage. For compost take two parts 

 of loam to one of well rotted manure; if the loam is stiff add a little sand. 

 After planting waters moderately, just enough to settle the soil firmly about the 

 roots; shades and sprinkles for a few days until they are established. After 

 this he gives more air and not too much bright sun. The most critical time, 

 he says, is from now until they get into the open ground. If they are allowed 

 to become dry or get scorched the rust or canker is sure to attack them. 

 Keep from green fly and red spider. As soon as perfectly established, move to 

 cold frame; give all air possible, but do not let them freeze. 



As soon as the weather will permit, and the land is in good working order, 

 plant out in rows fifteen inches apart and ten inches in the rows. 



With regard to soils, he said: The best soil is good, yellow loam, rather 

 light; they will make more fibrous roots, but not so much growth as in heavy 

 soil : it is not robust growth we want, but good, firm wood. For manure, I 

 find horse manure the best. If the soil is old, that is, been under cultivation 

 a long time, give a good dressing of lime. The reason the carnation does not 

 do well in old land is the deficiency of lime. The carnation is something like 

 wheat; too much manure and a deficiency of lime will not only produce an abund- 

 ance of coarse straw and bran, but disease, also; the flour from such wheat is 

 coarse and of poor quality. It is just the same with the carnation. New land 

 is the best, although I have grown my plants on the same land for the past ten 

 years, and they have always done well. Any one else can do the same by fol- 

 lowing the above treatment; of course, the plants must be stopped during the 

 season, so as to make them stocky. 



In giving counsel for the treatment upon removal to the houses, Mr. Tailby 

 said : 



Get the plants inside before the cold weather sets in so as to have them well 

 started before using fire heat. For compost use three or four parts of good 

 maiden loam to one of rotten manure; plant about ten inches apart and give a 

 good watering so as to settle the soil well about the roots. Sprinkle two or 

 three times a day until plants are well established and begin to make new roots; 

 after this they will take more water and all the air you can give them. Look 

 out for the green fly; check it as soon as it makes its appearance. The tem- 

 perature of the house should not be lower than 45° at night and from 55° to 

 65° by day; this, of course, will depend upon the weather. Give plenty of air 

 even at the expense of a bit of coal. Do not give too much water. Unless 

 airing and watering are properly attended to you cannot get good flowers or 

 keep your plants in healthy condition. 



About the beginning of January give them a dressing of good fertilizer or 

 liquid manure; you can repeat the dose once a month. I have not yet men- 

 tioned anything as to pot culture. The treatment is the same, only the compost 

 should be made richer and coarser; the best is rotted turf chopped about half 

 the size of an egg; pot firmly — a 6-inch pot is large enough to grow them in; 



