310 STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



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To secure the highest objects in planting we should have some plan lest we 

 destroy rather than enhance beauty and make more apparent existing defects. 



What to plant to secure the desired end is very essential. The size of the 

 grounds is an important consideration. A city or village lot has little room 

 for ornamental shrubbery and large trees should not be used in groups or as 

 single plants ; some varieties bear grouping while others will not. 



For lines of trees or shrubs those of uniform size should be used on our 

 streets. To plant in the proper place and the best for each place requires skill, 

 and not to crowd the grounds is equally important. 



In large grounds, such as the farmer can have, larger growing varieties and 

 more kinds can be used. The same is true of our public grounds or parks. 



The time to plant any tree or shrub is just as the buds begin to open, just 

 showing the green tip. The same is true of the evergreen. This will give a 

 long season for planting. The willow and poplar begin to leave early, and 

 should be planted early ; while the maple comes later, and the catalpa still 

 later, and the evergreens still later. What shall we plant? If we have large 

 grounds that will permit the use of tall trees that grow from thirty feet 

 upward, take the elm. Of maples, the hard maple is slow growing, and though 

 the soft maple grows quickly it branches in such shape as to be liable to split 

 down unless it is trimmed properly. 



The tulip tree or whitewood, which grows only in the United States, is a 

 clean, handsome tree and should be more planted. The beech and linden 

 are both good. The silver-leaved poplar grows rapidly but sprouts badly. The 

 balm-of-Gilead has handsome bronze, green and gold foliage and is fragrant. 

 The black walnut is good for shade and for fruit. Some tall pyramidal trees, 

 like the Lombardy poplar and the larch, may be used. 



For smaller grounds and to use among larger trees take shorter trees, grad- 

 ing from fifteen to twenty feet, &uch as the catalpa, fine in both bloom and 

 leaf. The birch, horse chestnut, buckeye, sweet chestnut, butternut (the two 

 latter being useful for their fruits), hawthorn, sweet bough and such other 

 varieties of the apple, mulberry, and such evergreens as the Norway spruce 

 pine and fir may be added. For still smaller grounds take the shrubs, growing 

 from seven to fifteen feet in height, as the lilac, brown and white fringe, shad- 

 berry tree, and matchless Judas tree ; also the mountain ash, wild crab, hyslop, 

 and the Siberian and other crab apples. To use for bed grouping and border 

 planting, take smaller shrubs, growing from three to seven feet high, among 

 which are the many spireas snowball, althea, sweet scented shrub, hydrangea 

 paniculata, and shrub honeysuckle. 



Another useful class are called bushes and are less than three feet high. 

 The spirea callosa, tub peony, deutzias, daphne, forsythia, rhododendron (if 

 protected in winter), wiegela, and others in this class are very useful — more 

 useful than anything else of this size, and the roses in borders and beds. The 

 June roses — many kinds of hybrids, moss roses and the fragrant tea roses are 

 excellent. 



Climbing shrubs have an important place in ornamentation. The clematis, 

 wisteria, akebia, ampelepsis, trumpet creeper, and honeysuckle are of high 

 importance, yet nearly all need a little protection in winter, as laying down 

 upon the ground and covering slightly with leaves. The Hamburg rose, like 

 the seven sisters, queen of the prairie, Baltimore bell, Dundee rambler and 

 some newer varieties, is very fine but needs some protection. These lists 

 could be extended, but those given have been tried and found useful. 



