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STATE BOARD OF AGRICULTURE 



However, watersprouts and a few superfluous branches may be removed to 

 advantage during the summer months. 



Pruning Tools — Two tools are essential for pruning work: a pair of small 

 hand shears and a saw. With these two tools a pruner can do practically all 

 of the work that will be required in bearing trees and most of the work in 

 young trees. 



The shears should be made of the best material obtainable, as cheap shears 

 are easily sprung. A good pair of steel shears will withstand heavy work for 

 several years. The shears should be seven to ten inches in length, nine being 

 the size usually preferred. 



The saw should be so constructed as to cut rapidly, leave a smooth cut, be 

 as light as is consistent with rigidity and good lasting qualities; and it should 



Figure 6. Pruning tools. (1) A good type of saw. (3) Saw with two cutting edges. (5) Saw 

 with teeth set to cut "on the pull." A light, inexpensive and rapid cutting tool. (2) An excellent 

 type of hand pruning shears. (4) Hand shears with coil spring. Not as satisfactory as No. 2. 



have a hand grip that will not tire or cramp the hand or wrist. A saw on 

 which the teeth are set to cut on the "pull" is less tiring to the pruner. Saws 

 with teeth on both edges are objectionable, as they usually are poor in cut- 

 ting quality and frequently injure bark on the permanent branch. 



A pair of lopping or wooden handled shears often facilitates the work about 

 young trees and about the lower parts of old trees. It is a somewhat awkward 

 tool to use in the upper parts of bearing trees. Such shears should be about 

 20 to 26 inches in length and of double leverage. 



Pole pruners, six to ten feet in length, enable the pruner to work the tops 

 of trees five to ten years old to better advantage. They should not be used 

 where it is possible to employ the other tools, because work with the pole 



