WEST MICHIGAN FRUIT GROWERS' SOCIETY. 139 



CULTIVATION AND MANAGEMENT OF GRAPES. 



The first point is location. I prefer high grounds and hillsides sloping to 

 the south or southeast, surrounded with good river drainage. The second 

 point, quite essential to the success of the vineyardist, is the soil. It used to 

 be said that ,/];rapes would grow on the poorest soil we had. It now takes 

 good soil and that needs to be fed liberally from year to year. For the fol- 

 lowing three varieties, Worden, Niagara and Brighton, I prefer a sandy loam 

 soil. I speak of only three varieties because I consider them the best three 

 varieties to raise for money on this lake shore. All grapes succeed best on 

 lands well cultivated and drained. Grapes do not like wet feet, nor will they 

 try to do well with them, for wet ground is cold and unhealthy, causing the 

 vines to decay, and soon they die with premature old age. This will not be 

 the case on lands drained so that heat and air can penetrate to the roots. 



The next important step is the preparation of the soil. As cut-worms are 

 very troublesome on this lake shore, I would advise, on grounds to be planted 

 with vines the coming fall or the following spring, the sowing of buckwheat 

 the last of June. When in full bloom plow under. This is a dead-shot 

 against cut-worms and all embryo insect life or larvse in the ground. The 

 poisonous gases contained in the bloom of the buckwheat does the work. 

 Before planting, cultivate the ground thoroughly. Then roll and mark out 

 in rows nine feet apart, and set your vines ten feet apart in the row. I prefer 

 first-class yearling plants in preference to any other. I would trim the roots 

 to from ten to twelve inches in length. The hole should be dug a foot deep, 

 leaving a slight cone or elevation in the center. Set your plant and spread 

 the roots evenly and well. Cover the roots four inches or more with fresh 

 surface soil, well pressed around them. Now add, if you have it, some well- 

 rotted manure or fertilizer, a handful or two mixed with unleached ashes. 

 Then fill up, pressing in the dirt compactly. 



Cultivate well the first year, and in the fall cut back to three buds. Mulch 

 the vines and do it well. The second year cultivate thoroughly. Give the vines 

 an early start and keep them growing, and do not let them become stunted. 

 If you do they will never get over it. For the first three or four years, until 

 the vineyard is thoroughly established and able to resist the attack of the cut- 

 worm, I would cultivate well till the first of July. Then sow to buckwheat 

 and plow under when in full bloom. 



It has been said one of the greatest faults in the management of a vineyard 

 is in not strengthening the vine by trimming. It seems to me it is very im- 

 portant that we have a thorough knowledge of the strength of the vines in 

 our vineyards, and then trim in proportion to their strength. Then again, 

 do not let young vines bear too heavily; and even old established vineyards 

 must be guarded in this respect. Let us grow less fruit and of a better qual- 

 ity. Let us cultivate more evenly, trim more evenly, fertilize more evenly, 

 and have more even vineyards; and I believe it will be more profitable in the 

 end. 



Now as regards trimming the vines: The second year, if vines have made 

 good growth, trim back to two feet or less. If growth is weak, cut back again 

 to three buds, mulching well preparatory for winter. The third year train 

 your vines to what is called the Kniffiu system — first wire two and one-fourth 

 feet from the ground ; second wire two and one-half feet higher. Traiu your 



