WEST MICHIGAN FRUIT GROWERS' SOCIETY. 145 



out in the spring fresh and thrifty. Don't let the roots become 

 dry. Many have made mistakes as to varieties. There should be 

 more late fruit. I spread copperas about the roots of the trees 

 and it greatly decreases the borers. Caustic lime will do the same. 

 Trees are often ruined by overbearing, and careful, systematic thinning is one 

 of our most important duties. This work I do chiefly by means of clipping 

 out the little branches. As a rule our trees carry too much tender foliage. 

 We sometimes become wearied with talking over so often these methods of 

 growing fruit. But why should we? There are always beginners who need 

 just these points, who come to such meetings as this to got them, and it is 

 our duty to give them constantly the benefit of our experience. 



Mr. Manwaring: I would first thin by clipping out the limbs and after- 

 ward by picking. 



A. Bos: Will thinning to three inches apart do? J. IL Wetmore : I 

 would want more, for the large sorts. Clipping is an insufficient way of 

 thinning. 



Levi Loomis: I do not find that copperas will kill the borer, nor ashes, 

 salt nor lime. I find no difference between peaches three inches apart, and 

 those close together, and would thin to four or more inches. The fruit of 

 double buds will do as well together as one would if the other were taken. 



Mr. Corner : For all the use of copperas I take out the grubs by digging, 

 and leave the crown dry, as the moth which lays the egg will not so readily 

 attack hard and dry surfaces. 



D. W. Wiley: I used to dig the borer every fall and spring; but we waste 

 time so. I would not encourage neglect, but after a tree becomes four years 

 old, time is lost hunting borers and more harm is done than good by the ordi- 

 nary man's cutting. 



Mr. Hamilton: What is the rule at South Haven? 



A. C. Merritt : We regard thinning as of much importance, but the tree 

 must be right before it begins. Some trees I see need the saw first. I begin 

 with shears. You must have first your ideal. If a twig thiit should be left 

 has four fruits and is fit for but one, take off three. But take out such 

 twigs as should not be there— give light and air to what remain. Proportion 

 your fruit nicely. Leave the base peach if it be thrifty, otherwise leave 

 some other. Leave apart or in pairs, as may seem best, but three inches is 

 too close — four to six is much better. 



J. J. Atherly agreed to the above, adding : Fix the limbs so that they 

 will not rub nor whip each other nor their fruit. 



Clark Sheffer : The grub is not stung into the tree. I heap dirt to the 

 trees the middle of June and remove it the middle of August, leaving the 

 eggs at the surface where they dry. I have but few grubs. This method 

 involves labor but it is effectual. Usually trees have too many branches. 

 They should be thinned to six to eight inches apart. 



CAN BLIGHT I]S" PEAR TREES BE PREVENTED? 



was a question upon which Wm. Shirley of Millgrove was to have enlight- 

 ened the society from bis wealth of experience; but being absent Mr. La- 

 Fleur spoke in his place, giving Mr. Shirley's method with twig blight in the 

 pear tree. As soon as an affected tree is disc )vered, blighted portion is cut 

 off and the bark of both limbs and trunk are slit to the wood, several slits 



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