KEPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM, 1914. 49 



every stage of which is shown from the opening of the bale to a 

 finished garment. The accompanying large exhibition of plain, 

 piece-dyed, yarn-dyed, and printed cotton fabrics includes not only 

 standard goods like sheetings, drills, cambrics, percales, organdies, 

 chambrays, ginghams, double-faced napped goods, cotton flannels, 

 etc., but also dress goods novelties like crepes and ratines. 



The wool industry is inaugurated by a series of raw wools repre- 

 senting the best classes raised in this country, and for comparison 

 a few selected fleeces from other parts of the world. Other speci- 

 mens show the injurious effects of poor pasturage and disease upon 

 the qualit}^ of the material and the trouble and expense caused 

 the manufacturer by improper methods of marking sheep and 

 sorting and baling wool. The very different processes employed in 

 the manufacture of woolen and worsted goods are brought out in 

 three large series of specimens, one showing the successive steps in 

 the production of a woolen overcoat fabric, another of worsted yarn 

 by the French system, and a third by the Bradford or English sys- 

 tem. The general collection which follows comprises suitings, broad- 

 cloth, cheviots, serges, diagonals, dress goods, crepes, voiles, challies, 

 cashmeres, Panama cloth, bunting, cloakings, etc., examples of 2 

 yards or more of each being draped in an effective manner to bring 

 out the particular qualities of each fabric. 



The silk section commences with a case devoted to the natural 

 history of the cultivated mulberry silkworm, and includes besides 

 eggs, worms, chrysalises, cocoons and moths, large models of a silk- 

 worm and of the male and female moths. A second case contains a 

 series of commercial raw silks from the principal markets, together 

 with specimens showing the methods of wrapping, marking, tying, 

 and conditioning them. In still other cases are illustrated thrown 

 silk and the processes used in preparing silk threads for weaving, 

 sewing, and embroidering, as well as the utilization of silk waste 

 from the steam filatures and of the cocoons from which moths have 

 emerged. The exhibit of silk fabrics, which is extensive, is arranged 

 according to the methods of dyeing and finishing rather than to use, 

 and comprises piece-dyed, skein-dyed, printed, and brocaded goods, 

 besides silk velvets and plushes. At the southern end of the hall is 

 a fine display of color work on silk, which includes skein dyeing, 

 illustrated by two rows of skeins of thrown silk in 150 shades, piece 

 dyeing, and both warp and surface printing of silk goods by copper 

 rollers. In other cases the subjects of textile printing and orna- 

 mentation of fabrics by figure weaving are also presented. 



A large and deep wall case along the eastern side of the hall is 

 devoted to the historical aspect of the industry, and contains several 

 machines and models of machines which mark important epochs in 



71159°— NAT MUS 1914 4 



