FORTIETH ANNUAL REPORT. 141 



simple. During the summer select plants in the field that are strong 

 and vigorous, in the fall let them stay out until they have been frozen 

 solidly for about a month, then take the plants up, and put them in 

 your cellar and let them thaw out. The temperature of the cellar should 

 be about 50 to 55 degrees. After the plants have thawed and the excess 

 of moistnre used up a little water should be added every two or three 

 days, just enough to keep the plants moist, but never enough to make 

 them wet or soggy. The cellar does not need to be very light, but more 

 light is desirable after the plants become active. Several cuttings may 

 be made before the roots are exhausted. By taking up only a few 

 plants at a time a succession may be maintained throughout the winter. 

 How nice it will be to have these two plants fresh to use when the 

 good wife says "What shall we have for dinner today," or how nice to 

 surprise a friend who drops in to dinner along about New Year's, with 

 fresh, crisp asparagus that you grew yourself. Parsley is another 

 vegetable that may be had in winter, if one has a sunny window. Pots 

 of this may be grown outdoors during the summer and brought into 

 the house as the cold weather comes on, and it will grow nicely in a 

 warm sunny kitchen window, where it will be not only an ornament 

 but will be found to be much more convenient for use than that which 

 is buried under a foot of snow put in the garden. If strawberry plants 

 are potted during the summer while growing in the field, allowed to 

 freeze the same as pieplant or asparagus, and then brought into the 

 house and placed in a warm sunny window a nice crop of berries may 

 be had in the depth of winter. The principle precaution being to select 

 plants of the staminate or perfect kinds. 



To sum up, first, select good plants, strong and vigorous; second, 

 allow them to get a rest by freezing; third, place in the cellar or sunny 

 window as the case may be, and give them a little care, and you will 

 get returns that will be both pleasing and profitable. 



APPLE SCAB. 



BY F. C. DAYHARSH. 



Friends: — The apple scab fungus does more damage to the apple 

 than any other pest known except the codling moth. The apple scab 

 fungus you know, to be a greater pest some years than others. If the 

 spring be cold and wet, the prospect is good for scabby apples. Because 

 of the conditions under which this fungus appears on many apples, some 

 people have the idea it is the wet weather that causes the unsightly 

 fruit instead of a parasitic plant. 



The chart I have here will show you the minute organism and its 

 life history. The single plant we cannot see without the aid of a lens. 

 The spot on the apple which the buyers and consumers frown upon is 

 made up of many thousands of these plants. In order to get a crop of 

 apples free from this pest, it requires a thorough spraying with a well- 

 made spray. The chart shows a specimen that is free from scab on one 



