Page 2& 



more effective against blight and cleans 

 uj) the bark also. 



Like other fruit trees, there are four 

 growths in the apricot tree each year: 

 the bud growth and bloom, the leaf 

 growth, the wood and fruit growth, and 

 the last growth in September to 

 strengthen the buds for the coming 

 year. Then the trees become dormant. 



A good time to prepare the land in an 

 apricot orchard for winter is after the 

 fruit is thinned. Run your furrows as 

 the land drops away, plowing three feet 

 from the trees on each side of the row, 

 throwing the furrow toward the tree. 

 \Mien the land has been plowed in fur- 

 rows one way, then cross plow, if the 

 land is nearly level, every fifty feet; if 

 steeper, every twenty-five feet. These 

 cross checks hold the water from run- 



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ning faster than you want it. In this 

 way the whole space, including furrows, 

 will be covered with water. 



The slower you put on the water, the 

 deeper it sinks. On the first irrigation 

 the land is so thirsty for that long drink 

 you wonder where it is all going, but in 

 a little time it comes along with a strong 

 force until the whole row has been 

 watered. 



If your main ditch is large you can 

 irrigate three or four rows at a time. 

 Let the water seep into the ground 

 through every row in the orchard. 

 When you have finished the last row, 

 go right back to the first row and com- 

 mence all over again. The second water- 

 ing will be done much faster than the 

 first, and will be very effective. 



Some parts of all orchards will dry 



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out sooner than other parts. Start the 

 cultivation on the part that is ready. 

 You can lose the moisture in a day, if 

 you don't watch it. In three or four 

 days start the cultivation. Do good 

 work; do not skimp any part of the 

 ground that was watered. After the 

 cultivator follow with the disk harrow. 

 Then follow with the clod smasher and 

 smooth the land to prevent evaporation. 

 In that way one will be able to raise 

 good fruit in a dry year, and in no other 

 way. 



The Pumping Plant. 



My apricots are Royals and Blen- 

 heims. The soil is a sandy sediment, 

 twenty-eight feet deep, water gravel 

 twenty-two feet, twelve feet of hard 

 sand pan, where we reached second 

 water. The total depth of wells is sixty- 

 five feet. We have two wells in one pit. 

 We have a fine 18-horsepower crude 

 oil gas engine. It is started with gaso- 

 line and distillate, and afterward run 

 on crude oil. We have a No. 5 centrifu- 

 gal pump, throwing a powerful stream. 

 It is belted from the engine flywheel 

 horizontally, and has connecting up- 

 right belt from the pump, with tighten- 

 ing jacks and levers. 



The engine works easily. The pump 

 throws 50,000 gallons an hour, or 500,- 

 000 gallons on a ten-hour run. The 

 water is two feet below the pump, and 

 after stopping the engine after a day's 

 run the water is at the same level 

 instantly. 



The trees are planted in squares, 

 25x25 feet apart, and are thirteen years 

 old. I consider a good crop six green 

 tons to the acre, or one ton dried. 



I never irrigate less than twice, and 

 three times if needed. My personal 

 judgment and how the trees respond to 

 the water is my guide, but I always err 

 on the side of "more water" for deep 

 sediment soil such as I have. The bot- 

 tom and top moisture should always 

 meet beneath in any year to insure a 

 full crop. 



In ordinary years when the rains are 

 plentiful during or at the time of bloom- 

 ing, only the healthy blooms will stick, 

 which does not insure so large a crop, 

 but larger fruit and not so many on the 

 trees. 



The Drying Yard. 

 During the drying season there are 

 sometimes circular gusts of wind which 

 come up in the afternoon, mostly from 

 the south, and often overturn the trays 

 and despoil the fruit. A cloud of dust 

 rises also, making it very hard for the 

 drying fruit. When this takes place 

 never attempt to place the soft scattered 

 fruit on the trays; if you do you will 

 make a mess of it. Let it dry where it 

 is, as you cannot save it all. 



To obviate the trouble from dust we 

 determined to plant alfalfa in the dry- 

 ing yard. After the fruit drying was 

 over we flooded the drying yard space. 

 It was then disked both ways and leveled 

 and harrowed. The land was moist at 

 the time and the seed came up. In April 

 we cut the first crop. Just before we 

 need the space for a drying yard we 

 make another cutting, about June 20, 

 cutting it down close and raking it 



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