Page 12 



BETTER FRUIT 



Planting and Cultivating the Loganberry 



By Britt Aspinwall 



LOGANBERRIES are started from 

 plants obtained by tipping the old 

 vines in the fall of the year. The 

 selection of plants in setting out a new 

 yard is very essential, as a poor plant 

 will make a weak vine, which will 

 seldom, if ever, make much of a growth 

 or amount to anything. 



We set our plants eight feet aparl 

 each way and cultivate them both ways 

 during the first summer. This requires 

 about 680 plants to the acre. Before 

 setting them out the land should be 

 put in first-class condition, then mark 

 the ground both ways and take out a 

 good shovelful of dirt for each plant, 

 packing the loose dirt in around the 

 roots with the hands so as to have 

 them spread out as evenly as possible 

 and keep them from drying out. We 

 usually plant from the 25th of March 

 to the middle of April, according to the 

 season and the condition of the land. 

 After the plants are set out they should 

 be worked well each week or ten days 

 during the summer with a disc harrow, 

 springtooth and clodmasher to keep the 

 ground loose and keep a dust mulch 

 on the surface. 



The vines will not make very much 

 growth till about August, when they 

 will begin to shoot out over the ground, 

 and it will be necessary to turn them 

 lengthwise of the rows and work the 

 land only one way. At this time the 

 holes should be dug and the posts set 

 out for the trellis. We use good cedar 

 posts, putting them not over thirty-two 

 feet apart in the row and two feet in 

 the ground. This makes a trellis five 

 feet high. Anchor the end posts good, 

 as there will be a heavy strain on the 

 wires when they are filled with ripe 



fruit. We use three No. 12 galvanized 

 wires for the trellis, putting the top 

 wire on top of the posts and the bot- 

 tom one about 20 inches from the 

 ground. In October the vines should 

 be trained upon the trellis, spreading 

 them out evenly so as to cover all the 

 space possible and avoid bunches. It 

 will be necessary to wind them around 

 the wires but not too tight, and the 

 top wire will carry the most weight. 

 If more plants are wanted, train the 

 vines over the wires with the ends 

 down to the ground, and cover them 

 3 or 4 inches deep about the first to 

 the middle of October. They will take 

 root in the fall and winter and make 

 good plants by the next March. We 

 put ours down in this way and each 

 year ship thousands of plants to all 

 parts of the United States where they 

 can be grown. 



In the fall of the year plow the 

 ground, throwing the dirt toward the 

 rows, and leave it in this condition till 

 spring. In the spring, as soon as the 

 ground is in good condition to work, 

 plow the dirt away from the hills, 

 plowing very shallow closest to the 

 rows so as not to disturb the roots. A 

 vineyard plow is best for plowing the 

 last two furrows, as one can get closer 

 to the rows and between the hills with- 

 out injuring the roots. It is a good 

 plan to harrow close behind the plow 

 if the weather is at all dry. This may 

 be done either by hand or with a horse 

 hoe. After hoeing them in good shape, 

 which should be done soon after plow- 

 ing, take a disc harrow and throw the 

 dirt back to the rows, but be careful 

 not to ridge them too much in the row, 

 as it has a tendency to raise the roots 



April, 1920 



out of the ground. They should be 

 worked with a spring-tooth harrow, or 

 something similar, and a clodmasher 

 every week or ten days during the sum- 

 mer and up into July. When the new 

 shoots start in the spring they should 

 be trained up in the center of the hills, 

 allowing them to stick out over the 

 wires unless they get too long, when 

 they will have to be turned back. Never 

 thin out any of the vines unless they 

 get thick in the hills, as it is apt to 

 bleed the roots. I prefer not to trim off 

 the ends of the vines as we cannot see 

 that they raise any larger berries, but 

 fewer of them than when left as they 

 naturally grow. 



The picking season starts in from the 

 middle of June to the first of July, and 

 usually lasts about six weeks. It re- 

 quires about four or five good pickers 

 to the acre. As soon as we are through 

 picking we cut out the old vines and 

 train up the new ones, throwing the 

 old ones between the rows, and cutting 

 them up with a sharp disc harrow so 

 they can easily be plowed under and 

 serve as fertilizer. Loganberries should 

 yield from one-third to one-half of a 

 crop the next year after being set out, 

 and thereafter a full crop. An average 

 crop is from four to five tons of fresh 

 fruit to the acre, although they some- 

 times yield as much as six and one- 

 half tons on good, rich land. It re- 

 quires five and one-half pounds of fresh 

 fruit to make one of evaporated. 



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Harvesting the loganberry crop on the AspinwaU place near Brooks, Oregon. 



t Fruit trees budded from bearing orch- 

 ards. Apple, Pear, Ciierrj-. Peacli. Plum. 

 I'rune. Apricot, Quiiice, Grape Vines, 

 Shrubljery, Plants, Raspberries, Black- 

 berries, lyogans. Dewberries, Asparagus, 

 Rhubarb. Flowering Slirtlbs. Rosea, 

 Vines. Hedge. Nut and Shade Trees. 

 Carriage paid. Satisfaction guaranteed. 



WASHINGTON NURSERY CO. 



Toppenish, Washin^oii. 



Salesmen everywhere. More wanted. 



