Page 34 



BETTER FRUIT 



Insects and Diseases of the Loganberry 



By W. S. Brown, Chief of the Division of Horticulture, Oregon Agricultural College 



THE loganberry is not afTected by 

 many serious insect pests. The 



three that seem to do the most damage 

 are the raspberry cane maggot, the leaf 

 hopper, and the raspberry rootborer. 



The cane maggot causes the cane to 

 wilt or droop. A careful examination 

 will disclose a bluish ring just under 

 the bark near the surface of the ground. 

 The cane should be cut off just below 

 this ring and destroyed. This will kill 

 the maggots working within. 



The leaf hoppers are sucking insects. 

 They do their damage by sucking out 

 plant juices from the leaves and young 

 canes. They should be attacked while 

 young or in the nymph stage. They 

 may be killed by some contact remedy 

 such as whale-oil soap, one pound to 

 ten gallons of water; kerosene emulsion 

 10 per cent solution; or a mixture of 

 Black-leaf 40, one-half pint, plus four 

 pounds of whale-oil soap, to 100 gallons 

 of water. 



The root borer, when present, causes 

 the infested plant to become yellowed 

 and the berries to be small and seedy. 

 Two years are required for the borer to 

 mature. The first season it attacks the 

 young canes, girdling them near the 

 surface of the soil. The injured canes 

 may be readily observed in late sum- 

 mer, lying flat on the ground with the 

 foliage wilted. With a heavy pair of 

 gloves the injured cane can be given a 

 twist that will break it off at the girdle. 

 In most cases the borer will remain in 

 the detached cane, which should be re- 

 moved from the field. 



The most serious diseases are the 

 crown gall, mushroom root rot, and 

 anthracnose. Wien affected by crown 

 gall the plants gradually turn yellow 

 and lose their vigor. By a careful ex- 

 amination corky swellings will be 

 found on the roots, usually near the 

 surface of the ground, but often on the 

 smaller roots. This trouble occurs very 

 frequently as a swelling or canker 

 along the side of the cane. 



Mu.shroom root rot is a fungous 

 trouble which attacks the roots of the 

 plants, finally causing their death. The 

 disease grows on old tree roots and 

 stumps, and is more apt to affect plants 

 set out on newly cleared land. When 

 afTected with either of the above dis- 

 eases, the plants, with their roots, 

 should be removed at once and burned. 

 No new plants should be set in their 

 places before three years have elapsed. 

 A fungous disease called anthracnose 

 seems to have done more damage to the 

 loganberry than any other trouble in 

 the state. It is a disease causing light- 

 i.sh-gray spots to appear on the leaves 

 and canes of the plant, and may attack 

 the drupelets of the fruit, also, causing 

 them to turn a light gray color. Or- 

 dinarily this disease can be kept under 

 control by carefully cutting out the old 

 vines after fruiting and burning them. 

 If at this time some of the new canes 

 are found to be infested seriously they 

 should be thinned out, also. When the 

 infection becomes serious, spraying 



with bordeaux mixture l-l-.^O is recom- 

 mended. The mixture is best applied 

 with a i-esin fish-oil stickei', to improve 

 the sticking and spreading qualities of 

 the bordeaux. The first application 

 should come about the time the first 

 leaves have attained good size. The 

 second spraying should be applied just 

 before the blossoms open and the third 

 may be put on about the end of summer, 



April. 1920 



in case new infections begin to make 

 their appearance on the young canes 

 and foliage. To protect the fruit, some 

 colorless mixture, like Burgundy mix- 

 ture, should be applied about two weeks 

 after the petals fall. The resin fish-oil 

 sticker should be used with this also. 

 The formula for Burgundy mixture is 

 as follows: Two pounds copper sul- 

 phate (bluestone), three pounds sodium 

 carbonate (washing soda) and 100 gal- 

 lons of water. Mix each of the chemi- 

 cals separately with water before 

 bringing them together. 



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 Ghirardelli's is food and drink both! 



Never sold in bulk — but in cans only. 

 In ^ lb., 1 lb. and 3 lb. sealed cans — 

 at the store where you do your trading. 



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D. 



Since 1852 



San Francisco 



(F6) 



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Write for circulars and prices. D. H. WATTS, Kerrmoor, Pa. 



WHEN WRITING ADVERTISERS MENTION BETTER FRUIT 



