Page 1 6 



BETTER FRUIT 



November, iqtq 



which might or should be associated 

 with or under the direction of the State 

 Road Commission. 



Here in this office the general prob- 

 lem and its relation to the state at large 

 can be definitely started and solved. 

 Here the man in charge of the planting 

 can keep his hand on the various prob- 

 lems and through his means of obtain- 



ing information can become acquainted 

 with all the topographic features along 

 the road. In this way, then, and in this 

 way only, I feel that a delinite develop- 

 ment along satisfactory lines may be 

 made, and thus the roads which are to 

 be developed in the next decade can be 

 made attractive from the standpoint of 

 beauty as well as of good engineering. 



Strawberry Culture From All Viewpoints 



Written for "Better Fruit" by a Grower 



TO break right in at the start, in set- 

 ting strawberry plants you should 

 always get the very best plants 

 obtainable. Don't think that you can 

 economize by getting plants from a run- 

 out fruiting bed for nothing and then 

 expect to grow a good fruit crop. A 

 few years ago I was talking with sev- 

 eral of my neighbors at Twin Falls. 

 One man remarked that he wanted to 

 buy some strawberry plants. His neigh- 

 bor spoke up and said, "You don't need 

 to buy plants. Come on over and I will 

 give you all you want. They're so thick 

 they will not fruit anyway, and I intend 

 plowing them up in the spring." Now 

 this fellow meant well, but he evidently 

 had never had any experience in grow- 

 ing fancy strawberries. The neighbor 

 did not take his advice, however, but 

 bought his plants elsewhere. 



One should get plants adapted to the 

 locality. If inexperienced in this line, 

 most any reliable plant grower or nurs- 

 eryman can advise you about what to 

 get, or possibly you can get the infor- 

 mation from successful growers in your 

 locality. 



For a family garden one ought to 

 have two or three early variety and 

 two or three medium or late varieties 

 and at least one ever-bearing variety. 

 This assures us of strawberries during 

 the season. For commercial purposes 

 we want to grow whatever the market 



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demands. We might get a much higher 

 price by shipping to a distant city. 

 Such being the case, we want strawber- 

 ries that will be good shippers. How- 

 ever, whether for domestic use or for 

 commercial purposes, we should grow 

 at least two or three varieties to insure 

 pollenization. There are male and 

 female in strawberry plants. The female 

 will not fruit unless set with a male; 

 however, it is not necessary to set a 

 male with a female to insure success, 

 as the male variety has both male and 

 female organs and is self-pollenizing. 



I always advise setting plants in the 

 spring. At that season transplanting 

 does not set them back. For trans- 

 planting we use a tool something like a 

 trowel, which we call a steel dibble. 

 Sticking it in the soil five or six inches 

 deep makes a good sized hole. It is 

 easily handled with one hand, and 

 while making the hole, holding the dib- 

 ble in one hand, you can pick up the 

 plant with the other hand, and thus set 

 the plant. The roots should be well 

 down and all spread out. Care should 

 be taken that the crown is not covered, 

 as plants should have air the same as 

 human beings. 



Preparing the Soil. 



I prefer clover sod plowed in in the 

 fall, and then covered two or three 

 inches deep with well rotted manure. 

 There is nothing equal to manure. After 

 the manure has been put on, get on it 

 with a good sharp disk harrow, which 

 mixes it with the soil. The rains and 

 snows will dissolve the manure and put 

 it in good shape. In the spring it should 

 all be dissolved, and then should be 

 disked and rolled. This makes an ideal 

 bed and gives the weeds such a backset 

 that they are not likely to give any 

 trouble until the plants are well started. 



I would advise growing strawberries 

 in the hill system. There is no question 

 but that this system is the easiest, sim- 

 plest and the most profitable way to 

 grow strawberries. Make the rows 

 about thirty inches apart, and set the 

 plants about fifteen inches part in the 

 rows. The rows are close together, and 

 where irrigation is necessary one cor- 

 rugation between each two rows is all 

 that is necessary. I am referring now 

 to irrigating after the plants are started. 

 ^\Tlen first set, corrugation should be as 

 close to the plants as possible. With 

 the hill system you will have less trou- 

 ble to keep out the weeds, the berries 

 are much easier to pick, and will pro- 

 duce more fancy fruit. 



There are other systems which may 

 be followed with satisfactory results. 

 The single hedge, and the double or 



triple hedge-row systems have proven 

 successful. 



If you desire to follow the single 

 hedge row system the rows should be 

 at least three feet apart, and the plants 

 should be set two feet apart in the row. 

 Each plant should be allowed to make 

 two runner plants, which should be 

 layered in line with the original row, 

 one on each side of the mother plant. 

 This gives continuous rows with plants 

 about twelve inches apart in the row. 

 After the rows have been thus formed, 

 the rest of the runners should be 

 pruned off. This leaves room between 

 the rows for cultivating, and pickers 

 can get through without disturbing the 

 vines and fruit. 



In using the double hedge row system 

 you make the rows three and one-half 

 feet apart and set the plants two feet 

 apart in the rows. Each of these plants 

 should be allowed to make six runner 

 plants. The first two runners of each 

 plant should be layered directly in line 

 with the original row, one on each side 

 of the mother plant, and the remainder 

 should be layered on each side of the 

 row. \^T^en runners are layered in this 

 manner the rows will be about one foot 

 wide, and each plant will have plenty 

 of room to develop into a heavy fruiter. 

 After the rows have been thus formed, 

 all other runners should be pruned off 

 the same as in the single hedge row 

 system. 



I do not recommend the wide matted 

 row system, which is formed by mak- 

 ing rows from three and one-half to 

 four feet apart and setting plants two 

 feet apart in the rows, allowing each 



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