Page i8 



BETTER FRUIT 



November 



Ridley,Houlding&Co. 



COVENT GARDEN, LONDON 



Points to remember when consigning 

 apples to the LondonJMarket 



Specialists in 

 Apples 



CABLE ADDRESS: BOTANIZING, LONDON 



W. H. DRYER 



W. W. BOLLAM 



DRYER, BOLLAM & CO. 



GENERAL 

 COMMISSION MERCHANTS 



128 FRONT STREET 



Phones: Main 2348 

 A 2348 



PORTLAND, OREGON 



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Pruning the Bearing Tree 



Continued from page 6. 



pear trees should never be cut very 

 much; that it niiikes a sappy growth 

 susceptible to blight, and there are 

 many evidences lliat there is much truth 

 in the last statement. It is very inter- 

 esting to visit the orchard of Mr. Saw- 

 yer of Toppenish, Washington. Mr. 

 Sawyer has one of the largest pear 

 orchards in that country, is in an irri- 

 gated section and has had his orchard 

 in alfalfa sod for eighteen years. He 

 prunes very heavily and as a result he 

 gets a good growth, has little or no 

 propping to do and has a heavy yield. 

 He is in a section where blight occurs, 

 but he seemingly has little trouble with 

 this disease. Mr. Sawyer may be un- 

 orthodox, nevertheless his orchard is a 

 good testimonial of the soundness of 

 his views and is worth the serious con- 

 sideration of pear growers. 



Since there is a great interest in the 

 Italian prune, a few words to our prune 

 growers will be of some aid to them. 

 There are three kinds of wood on the 

 average prune tree. First, the upright 

 strong branching wood or staghorn 

 wood, so to speak. This wood has a 

 mighty bright future. Second, there is 

 the wood which grows out horizon- 

 tally. This wood has had a wonderful 

 past, a fair present but an unpromising 

 future, and, third, the drooping wood; 

 all it has is a past. In other words, the 

 staghorn wood is beginning to bear, 

 and in the near future will not only 

 produce the most of the prunes on the 

 tree, but also the largest ones. The 

 horizontal wood, while still producing 

 lots of prunes, is setting less and less 

 blossoms and is tending to produce 

 small fruit. The drooping wood may 

 bloom, but it is generally too weak to 

 produce fruit or, if it does produce, the 

 fruit will be found to be of inferior 

 quality. The problem of the prune, 

 then, is to keep plenty of staghorn wood 

 coming into the tree and keep removing 

 the drooping wood. Many of our old 

 prune trees should sacrifice one-fourth 

 to one-half of their wood. Such a re- 

 moval would immediately revitalize the 

 remaining spurs and buds left on the 

 trees; more fruit, larger sizes and new, 

 vigorous wood is the result. Much of 

 this drooping wood can be most cheaply 

 and easily removed by pulling on an 

 old pair of gloves and simply breaking 

 it out. Where a good, vigorous sprout 

 appears on a prune tree, remove some 

 of the older wood next to it and give 

 the sprout a chance to develop. Badly 

 devitalized trees can be dehorned and 

 new sprouts developed into fruitful 

 tops in four years, but this should not 

 be done unless necessary, as a vigorous 

 thinning out will often revitalize many 

 trees without the loss of the crop for 

 three or four years. Most of our stone 

 fruits such as the prune and the cher- 

 ries are often short lived owing to 

 heart rots which develop. These heart- 

 rots fungi get their foothold in wounds. 

 The wounds in not only such trees but 

 in all trees should be carefully pro- 

 tected. Copper nails could be used 

 where they are easily procured, driving 

 them into the cut surface, the copper 



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