Page Fourteen BETTER FRUIT January, 1922 



Elemental Treatise on Pruning the Apple 



Prepared by Staff Weiter 



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I Here is the continuation of the | 



I thorough- going discussion of frun- | 



I ing, its objectives and frincifles, be- | 



I gun in the December issue. This in- | 



I stallment resumes the discussion of \ 



I -prefer methods of forming the tree- | 



I head, not fully comfleted last month. \ 



I From here the subject is fursued in | 



I logical sequence, practices for frun | 



I ing at the z'arious successive stages in | 



I the life of the tree being given. \ 



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(Continued) 



IN formation of the open-headed tree, 

 through pruning operations of the first 

 two years, it is very important to avoid 

 the one weak point of this type. This is 

 in the crotch, which must be made as strong' 

 as it is possible to make it. 



Formation of the head between the 

 heights of fifteen and thirtv-five inches, 

 as here suggested, solves the problem of 

 weak crotch. It permits the branches to 

 start more horizontally without seriousl/ 

 interfering with cultivation and gives better 

 distribution, prime factors in producing a 

 strong croich. 



Two Years to Form the Head — The hab- 

 it of growth makes it impossible to form the 

 head with a proper distribution of branches 

 in one year. The growth usually occurs at 

 the top, due to a congestion of sap and the 

 upper buds being stronger. To cut at thirty- 

 five inches would probably result in a few 

 shoots at the top while the lower buds would 

 only develop leaves or remain dormant, 

 producing little or no growth from which 

 to select the lower scaffold branches. It 

 would only be under the most favorable 

 conditions that the newly planted tree 

 would be able to force sufficient growih 

 along its entire stem from fifteen to thirty- 

 five inches to make the proper selection of 

 the lower scaffold iDranches possible. 

 Therefore, two years are necessary in pro- 

 perly distributing and forming the scaffold 

 branches. 



Cut to Twenty-Five Inches When Plant- 

 ed — The first year head the tree at twenty- 

 five inches. This will probably force most 

 of the buds between fifteen and twenty- 

 five inches into growth. The top shoot, 

 which is usually almost vertical, is left about 

 ten or twelve inches long, cutting it at 

 thirty-five inches from the ground. The 

 other laterals are stubbed back to one or 

 two buds. This top shoot forms a continua- 

 tion of the trunk and the following sea- 

 son, lateral growth will be thrown out from 

 it as well as the stubs and dormant buds on 

 the old stem. Thus at the end of the second 



season there will be numerous laterals along 

 the entire stem, making it possible to select 

 four, properly spaced between fifteen and 

 thirty-five inches to form the scaffold 

 branches. 



A study of habits of growth will show the 

 practicability of this system. All branches 

 grow toward the best light conditions. The 

 top shoot usually grows almost vertical. 

 Lower branches tend to keep away from the 

 shading influences of the branches above by 

 growing more horizontal. Thus the upper 



shoot usually lends itself admirably as a 

 leader. Should it be too horizontal cut it 

 short to an upper bud which the following 

 year will form a leader. 



How does the growth start? The greater 

 part of the root system has been removed 

 and not a single feeder is left. New root 

 feeders must be produced before the tree 

 can draw nourishment from the soil. This 

 calls for the reserve energies of the tree; 

 elaborated food stored in the tissues of the 

 stem and roots. When the leaves begin to 



