The Bulletin. 15 



bage are to be set in little balls or pellets, and if convenient shade it 

 with a chip or dry leaf so it will not dry out too quickly. One such 

 pellet every yard or two along the rows should be sufficient. 



Fig. 6.— Adult moth of the Greasy Cutworm, one of our destructive species. (Photo by Z. P. Metcalf.) 



Poisoned Clover Bait. — This method is similar to the last in prin- 

 ciple, green clover being poisoned and distributed through the field. 

 Cut a sufficient quantity of green clover (crimson clover is excellent) 

 and saturate it in water which is either poisoned with Paris green or 

 arsenate of lead, at the rate of one pound of green (or five pounds of 

 arsenate of lead) to a barrel of water. Fork the clover about in the 

 solution so that every leaf and stem will be submerged and poisoned. 

 Then scatter it through the cabbage patch or field (before the plants are 

 set out), and many of the cutworms will be killed by eating it. 



Searching and Killing the Cutworms. — Although it might not 

 seem so, yet this is one of the best methods of all, especially for small 

 gardens and patches. One cutworm may cut many young cabbage 

 plants during a few weeks in early spring, yet during the day it will 

 usually remain hidden close to the top of the ground near the last one 

 cut. By going along the rows frequently (every morning if possible) 

 and scratching around the root of every cabbage which has been cut 

 during the night, one may often (though not always) find the guilty 

 worm. Of course this does not save that plant, but it may save a 

 good many others not yet cut. The cutworms may be right at the base 

 of the plants, or as much as four or five inches away, but they are large 

 enough and near enough to the surface so that with a very little ex- 

 perience one can usually find them. 



Paper Collars. — It may be possible to prevent some cutworm in- 

 jury by placing paper collars around the plants when setting them out. 

 Cut the paper into strips of convenient width, wrap around the base of 

 the young stalk, and set the plants so that the bottom of the collar is a 

 little below the surface, and the top should come to the first leaves. In 

 large plantings this is not easy, owing to the haste to get the work done, 

 and the varying sizes of the plants. The method is quite frequently 

 used in gardens,. especially on tomato plants, and it can be used for cab- 

 bage in the same way. 



