Africa 265 



teresting fishes, and above all small species or young speci- 

 mens, that we were able to get really a very fair variety. 

 Luckily, there was a good drugstore in town which had 

 formalin for preserving and some wide-mouthed jars, and 

 the result of our fortunate visit to this market was a con- 

 cise little paper by our friend Henry Fowler of the Phila- 

 delphia Academy, who was glad to make the identifica- 

 tions and publish them, since he said records were few for 

 this section of the African coast. 



Then came Mozambique, hoary with age, and like an 

 old, rather down-at-the-heel town of Latin Europe; next 

 Porto Amelia with its lovely bay and Dar es Salaam, mod- 

 ern, obviously built by Germans, neat and well laid out. 



Zanzibar, however, is the spot of spots, a fascinating old 

 labyrinth of unspoiled Arab architecture. No one can 

 ever forget those stunning carved doorways in what we 

 would call adobe buildings, nor do many who tread its 

 little narrow streets realize that those which have not been 

 laid with asphalt in recent years are paved with cobble- 

 stones which came in the ballast of ships from Salem. The 

 stones, on reaching the port, were tossed out and the 

 cargoes of ivory and cloves came on board and the thrifty 

 Arabs made good use of them. 



Here I played a trick on the family. As we were walk- 

 ing along I spotted some durian fruits hanging in a stall 

 in the market and I bought one, said nothing about it, and 

 when we went to lunch on the roof of the funny Httle 

 hotel — an old Arab house remodeled with its high, adobe 

 parapets and much needed shade in the form of an awn- 

 ing overhead, for the dining room floor is also the roof — 

 I prepared a surprise. I had one of the native boys take 



