232 THE JOURNAIv OF PHARMACOLOGY. 



•curled, therefore less smooth than the yarns of pure wool. Frequently also 

 a fine but firm sheep's-wool yarn will be found twisted about a thicker 

 shoddy thread. 



Fifth : If the fibers which show different colors also differ much in thick- 

 ness and histology then the presence of shoddy is more apparent. 



Sixth : On the other hand, it is to be taken into consideration that if 

 various yarns are found with macroscopically different colors it may easily 

 be possible that each of the yarns may contain all of the colors, for threads 

 from one yarn could easily get into a differently colored yarn during weav.- 

 ing and eventual fulling. In this case the foreign extraneous fibers will 

 in the first place appear but seldom (and more on the outside of the yarn 

 threads) and secondly it will be easy to prove that all the different-colored 

 threads were obtained from the other yarns in the sample. They will then 

 correspond in color, thickness and histology. Then too it must not be 

 forgotten that often differently dyed wools are purposely mixed before 

 spinning generally but two or three colors which usually harmonize. 

 Therefore not orange and green, or yellow and blue, etc., but white and 

 black, white and blue, etc. So purposely mixed yarn of but few decided 

 colors would seldom be mistaken for artificial wool for the latter would 

 reveal single fibers containing all the colors. 



It may be said that silk, real and Sussa silk, is found woven or twisted 

 with wool in woolen fabrics and also in fulled cloths. Therefore the pres- 

 ence of silk ought not, as has frequently been done, be used as an indication 

 for the presence of shoddy. Fulled or similar materials having a colored 

 pattern (design) printed on an ofF-colored, at the same time one- toned 

 ground (printed shoddy), besides having a cotton warp, are purely shoddy 

 fabrics. If in one material (especially in a thicker one) yarns differing 

 much in thickness occur the stronger ones are suspiciously shoddy and to 

 be examined for artificial wool. 



Many fabrics, blue, black and other dyed one-color fabrics, are found 

 which also when examined microsocopically will reveal but one, even if 

 differently shaded, color. There are also yellowish (naturally colored) 

 flannels which, even when examined microscopically, could easily be con- 

 sidered pure sheep's woolens and yet partly consist of artificial wool. Such 

 light almost white sorts are obtained from white and partly from bleached 

 originally light-colored rags. In the first instance the color will sometimes 

 furnish no clue; this is so in the case of undyed sheep's wool and then 

 other characteristic features will have to be taken into consideration. If 

 on the contrary the light color has been obtained by bleaching, a slight 

 coloring if even but a shimmer (of green, red, etc.) will be observed in 

 many fibers. But often the differently colored artificial wools are dyed a 

 dark blue, black, etc., and this darkly-dyed material will greatly resemble 

 dyed natural wools. 



