THE MONTHLY BULLETIN. 91 



thoroiitrhly Inosonod up with a sliovi'l. In (li<j:j;infj; the holes, the top soil 

 should be phieecl to one side and the dirt from the bottom of the hole 

 plaeed on the other side. Replace the marker on its end pegs. 



The notch in the middle of tlie marker will be the proper position for 

 the tre(\ Cut back all bruised roots to a sound place with a sharp knife 

 and make a fresh, clean. slantinf>r cut on the under side of each root. 

 Place the tree in the hole with the trunk resting in the center of the 

 notch of the tree nuirker. Spread the roots out in their natural position 

 in the hole in which they are to be planted. The tree should be placed 

 with the same side towards the sun as it stood in the nursery. Let one 

 man hold the tree with the stem in the center of the notch, while the 

 other man slowly shovels in tirst the top earth, and then that taken 

 from the bottom of th(> hole, being careful not to place any straw or 

 manure around the roots, as this will leave air spaces and is death to 

 the tree. The earth should be tramped thoroughly, being careful not 

 to bruise the roots with your boots. The top six inches should not be 

 tramped but should be tilled in a few inches higher than the surface of 

 the gi'ound, so that when the rains settle the dirt, the tree will not be 

 in a hole a few inches below the surface. 



Previous to planting, the top should be cut off to about 12 inches above 

 the ground, according to the number of buds on the lower trunk of the 

 trees, and the cut waxed. I prefer to do this myself before shipping 

 the trees as it lessens the bulk and the cut is waxed, a thing the planter 

 is apt to neglect. After these buds make a growth of 4 to 6 inches, I 

 select the most thrifty one to make the butt of the future tree and pinch 

 off the others. This tree will probably make a growth of 4 to 12 feet 

 the first season and should be tied loosely with baling rope to a stake 

 as it grows. For this purpose I use a 2x3 Oregon pine, 10 feet long, 

 with the lower end sharpened, then dipped in a drum of boiling crude 

 oil for a few moments, using an old oil drum from which I have cut out 

 one of the heads for this purpose. This prevents the Oregon pine stake 

 from rotting and also prevents evaporation of moisture up through the 

 stake. Oregon pine so treated will last three or four years, which is as 

 long as you will re(|uire it, and it is much cheaper than redwood. 



If the trees are planted late it is well to adcT ten to twenty gallons of 

 water to settle the earth around the roots. The top six inches of the 

 surface .should always be left pulverized and not tramped. Tji planting, 

 if your soil is too wet, stop until it is in pro])er condition. It is all right 

 to keep your trees heeled in until the soil is in proper condition for plant- 

 ing, for if they are planted in mud, it will surely bake and they will not 

 do well. 



It is useless to plant dui-ing the cold months of the winter, as the roots 

 will not start to grow and are liable to become sour from the cold, damp 

 earth, but iii the spring when the ground begins to get warm, it is 

 natural for plant growth to put forth. Roots should be about 18 to 20 

 inches long. If too long, they rot. due to soil being too cold and wet 

 below that depth. 



CARE OF YOUNG TREES. 



The next and most important thing in hot climates is to nail a shake 

 on the south side of the Oregon pine stake to shade the tree from the hot 

 sun during the middle of the day, the edge extending out beyond the 



