88 THE MONTHLY BULLETIN. 



wire is pulled tight, then the sharp end of the stake on the other end 

 is driven into the ground a little ways, the top pulled back to make the 

 wire more taut and the stake driven firmly in the ground. Along this 

 wire patches of solder are placed where the trees should be planted, and 

 at this point a stake is driven. In using a measuring wire for laying 

 out the trees on the square it is necessary to get one corner true ; then a 

 field of good size can be marked out accurately. Select the side of the 

 field which is to serve as a base of the square, stretch the wire along 

 that and allow sufficient distance from the fence to give the teams room 

 to turn in cultivation. When the wire is thus stretched parallel to the 

 boundary of the field, place a stake at each patch of solder on the wire. 

 This stake will represent the first row of trees. 



Begin at the starting point and measure for 60 feet along this row 

 with a tape line and put a temporary stake. Then from the starting 

 point measure off 80 feet as nearly at right angles from the first as can 

 be judged with the eye. If the distance between these stakes is 100 

 feet, then the corner is at right angles. If it is not, you can vary your 

 second stake a little one way or the other until you have it at right 

 angles. Once having the outside lines started at right angles to each 

 other, and the stakes driven at each patch of solder as the wire is 

 stretched on each line, one can proceed with the measuring wire and lay 

 off his measurements in rows, if care be taken to have each line parallel 

 with the last, and to put stakes at the patch of solder on the wire. Of 

 course, if the land is hill}', measurements will have to be made from tree 

 to tree. 



Definite instructions in marking off. as well as many other points, can 

 be gotten in "California Fruits and How to Grow Them," by Professor 

 E. J. Wickson of the University of California. In fact, this is a book 

 that every one who is interested in horticulture in California should 

 have. 



After having staked where each tree should be planted, a marker 

 should be made about seven feet long, having a notch in the middle of 

 one side and at each end. By placing this marker longitudinally in the 

 row with the notch in the middle of the marker over the permanent 

 stake where the tree is to be planted, then placing a stake in the notch 

 at each end of the marker, you can dig your holes where the permanent 

 stake is, or bore a hole and use dynamite to blow it up. 



BLASTING. 



Blasting should always be done in the fall when the ground is dry, 

 never when the ground is moist, for it will compact the moist earth and 

 make a regular flower pot, which will be difficult for the roots to pene- 

 trate ; but blasting done in the summer when the ground is dry, loosens 

 it up thoroughly. Blasting loosens up heavy clay sub-soil or dense 

 stratas of hard-pan underlaid by free soil, so that it takes water well 

 and gives the roots a chance to permeate the ground easily. In many 

 loose soils, I think there is no advantage in blasting. Full directions in 

 regard to dynamiting can be had by writing to the numerous powder 

 companies. 



I have seen trees planted in blasted holes that showed no advantages 

 over trees that were planted in holes without blasting, in the same field 

 and planted at the same time in loose soils. On the other hand, in heavy 



