224 THE MONTHLY BULLETIN. 



Paint Large Pruning Cuts. — In nearly all of the old orchards we 

 see many large trees which should be in their prime but unfortunately 

 are nearly dead. If the pruning cuts of years ago had been made with- 

 out leaving stubs, and properly cared for, many of these trees would now 

 be yielding large crops. A closer examination will show the hearts of 

 the large limbs and even the trunks decaying. This is caused by rot 

 fungi which enter through large cuts left unprotected from the weather. 



Every book on the culture of the apple, pear or other deciduous trees, 

 recommends the painting of all large wounds. Authorities differ in 

 the main as to the time of application and the material to be used. 

 There are some very good men who recommend painting as soon as the 

 cut is made. It is because many have followed this and have seen the 

 effects that we hear so much talk of the evils of painting, and see 

 examples on every hand of trees with large unhealed cuts left unpro- 

 tected. If the owners of these trees would visit some nearby old orchard 

 and notice the number of limbs and trunks with the hearts rotting out, I 

 believe more interest would be sho-woi in protecting our orchards from 

 such conditions. 



If a cut is painted at once after pruning, the sap will be held on the 

 surface and will sour, often running from the wound and killing the 

 bark for inches down. Of course this is worse than if the wound had 

 not been painted. However, if the cut had been left exposed to the air 

 for a few months, the wood would have become hardened by exposure 

 and could safely have been painted without danger of the above men- 

 tioned undesirable result. This later painting will prevent any dry 

 rot fungi from entering the limb. It seems most desirable to paint in 

 May or June all cuts larger than a twenty-five cent piece, as by this 

 time the wood is hard and as yet has not started to decay. 



In painting pruning cuts it is not best to use a m.aterial that will 

 become hard and chip off with the growth of the tree, for this reason 

 never use white lead or paint as they are only temporary. Grafting 

 wax is probably the best material to use. Roofing compound, asphaltum 

 or even paraffine may be used quite successfully. In painting do not 

 apply the wax or other material too thickly. All that is necessary is a 

 thin film to keep the air from the wood. If it is put on too thick very 

 often in the heat of summer it will run, injuring the bark. 



The following is an excellent formula for grafting wax: 



Resin 6 pounds 



Beeswax 1 pound 



Linseed oil 1 pint 



Melt together and apply at a temperature of 180 degrees. — J. B. 

 HuNDLEY; County Horticultural Inspector, Yucaipa. 



