THE MONTHLY BULLETIN. 145 



In budding the young trees the buds should be set as close to the 

 ground as the operator can conveniently place them, and when they 

 start to grow the original top is partly or wholly removed in order to 

 force the growth of the young sprout. When set in the orchard the 

 young tree should be buried to the point of union of stock and scion. 

 Peach trees, more than one year old from scion are rarely planted, as 

 they are less satisfactory than yearling trees. For my own use, I prefer 

 a vigorous June bud that has made a growth of eighteen to twenty-four 

 inches rather than a yearling of six feet, as the shock of transplanting 

 is less and the laterals for forming the head of the future tree will nearly 

 always be more systematically arranged at the end of the first year in 

 the orchard. In transplanting from nursery to orchard see that the 

 roots are kept moist, as the small rootlets will not endure long exposure. 



The peach may be set in orchard while in dormant bud and grown 

 successfully Avith a little extra care, though this is seldom advisable. In 

 the last three days of :\rarch, 1902, I set 500 dormant buds, 250 each of 

 Lovells and iMuirs with a loss of but three. On planting I removed the 

 stock just above the bud with a sharp knife and used a protector, six 

 inches in diameter and twelve inches high, made from one-ply "P and 

 B" roofing, perforated for better circulation of air and held in place 

 by a couple of small stakes on the inner side. These trees l)ore a light 

 crop in 1905, or the third year from planting, and gave good returns 

 a year later. 



Generally speaking the peach thrives best in this State upon its own 

 roots, the Salway being considered the best seed for stock. In excep- 

 tionally moist locations, the plum root may prove more satisfactory. 

 The tree prefers a deep, sandy loam, but will prove satisfactory on 

 heavier soils if well drained. Since the blossom buds open very early, 

 they are liable to injury by frosts, and localities where late frosts prevail 

 should be avoided. 



The first preliminary step to proper planting is thorough and deep 

 plowing and pulverizing of the soil. Late winter or early spring plant- 

 ing is advisable, and if planted in squares, twenty-four feet apart each 

 way is the best distance. The roots should be carefully examined and 

 all bruised or broken parts cut away to a smooth surface. The hole 

 should be AA-ide arid deep enough to allow plenty of room for the roots 

 to lie in their natural position. The tree should be planted slightly 

 deeper than it naturally grew in the nursery. Loosen the soil in the 

 bottom of the hole the length of the shovel blade. The roots Avill appre- 

 ciate this, and if heat and moisture conditions are favorable, will follow 

 the line of least resistance and penetrate dowuAvard. A tree setter or 

 planting board should of course be used to hold the tree in position 

 Avhile carefully filling in around the roots with loose moist earth. Do 

 not tramp the soil as though setting a post, but when the hole is two 

 thirds full firm gently by pressing Avith the foot at the same time pulling 

 up lightly on the tree with the hand. Then fill the hole, leaving the top 

 soil loose. L'nless the ground is well moistened by rains, irrigation and 

 cultivation should follow soon. It is also A'ery important, especially in 

 the interior valleys, to protect the bodies from the hot rays of the sun. 

 Remember you are dealing with a young and tender plant that needs 

 your care and attention, and will respond to good or ill treatment as 

 readily as a young animal. As soon as planted all laterals should be 



