Page 20 



apricots and the more tender fruits 

 usually "kill" at five or six degrees of 

 frost. The wood within the roots quick- 

 ly turns brown at such temperatures, 

 while the wood of the stems and 

 branches may endure temperatures far 

 below zero without injury. Such trees 

 may look all right when planted, but 

 may fail to grow and finally shrivel in 

 the orchard because the roots were 

 dead. The roots may be badly injured 

 even by two or three degrees of frost. 

 It is safer not to expose the roots to the 

 air whenever the temperature is as low 

 as thirty-two degrees Fahr. 



BETTER FRUIT 



The tree should be set so as to retain 

 the natural spread of the roots. A main 

 root should not be crooked in setting. 

 Bending a root restricts the passage of 

 water through the water tubes in the 

 wood. It is almost impossible to firm 

 the soil around a very long root with- 

 out leaving kinks in it. It is safer to 

 cut long roots to six or eight inches in 

 length, so they will not be bent in 

 tamping the soil about them. 



In handling nursery trees most of 

 the small, fibrous roots die before the 

 tree is finally set in the orchard. If 

 left on the roots they are not only use- 



"In Every Respect" 



says the Good Judge 



You get more genuine chew- 

 ing satisfaction from the Real 

 Tobacco Chew than you ever 

 got from the ordinary kind. 



The good tobacco taste 

 Iasjts so long — a small chew 

 of this class of tobacco lasts 

 much longer than a big chew 

 of the old kind. That's why 

 it costs less to use. 



Any man who has used both 

 kinds will tell you that. 

 Put up in two styles 



W-B GUT is a long fine-cut tobacco 



RIGHT GUT is a short-cut tobacco 



1107 Broadway. New York City 



Ridley,Houlding&Co, 



COVENT GARDEN, LONDON 

 WE ARE 



Specialists in 

 Apples and Pears 



CABLE ADDRESS: BOTANIZING, LONDON 



Codes: A. B. C. 5th Edition and Modern Economy 



September, 1020 



less but are injurious to the tree. These 

 dead, curling fibres prevent getting the 

 soil in close, firm contact with the 

 larger main roots, which are alive and 

 which must be depended upon to supply 

 the top with water from the soil until 

 new fibrous roots form. The small, dead 

 fibres should be pruned away, cutting 

 them within about one-fourth or one- 

 half inch of the main root — usually the 

 basal stubs of these small roots remain 

 alive. Their cut ends increase greatly 

 the absorbing surface of the roots, until 

 new root growth begins. 



Usually the tree should be planted no 

 deeper than it stood in the nursery. 

 The young tree forms its roots in the 

 nursery at that depth which is most 

 congenial to their development. New 

 root growth starts more promptly where 

 the soil warms first near the surface. 

 Deep set roots often do not start new 

 growth until the trees are out in leaf 

 and thus calling for much water to 

 supply that which is evaporated from 

 the leaves. Most planters set trees too 

 deep. The earlier roots start growth 

 after planting, the deeper they will 

 grow during the season and the more 

 satisfactory will be the growth of the 

 tree above ground. In transplanting 

 trees from a nursery having a heavy, 

 cool soil, to an orchard with loose, 

 sandy, well aired soil, which warms 

 and dries quickly to a good depth, the 

 roots may be set correspondingly 

 deeper. 



This point can hardly be over-empha- 

 sized. To get the soil firm it should be 

 tramped firmly with the heels from the 

 bottom of the hole up. If as much as 

 six inches of soil is filled into the hole 

 without tramping it can not be made 

 firm about the roots. To get water 

 enough the roots must come in close 

 contact with thoroughly compacted soil 

 in which there are no large pockets. 



Press between roots rather than 

 against them. Bruised roots can not 

 make proper growth and are susceptible 

 to crown-gall, oak fungus, root insects 

 or diseases that may enter through 

 wounds. 



Shorten this whip to twenty-four or 

 thirty inches in height. This gives op- 

 portunity to space the new limbs six or 

 eight inches apart, where they arise 

 from the trunk, when they start in 

 spring. About three main limbs should 

 be arise from the trunk the first year. 

 The intervening shoots should be 

 pinched back to three or four leaves 

 each. This will encourage full develop- 

 ment of the main branches where they 

 are desired. The short intervening, 

 leafy twigs, shade the trunk and elabo- 

 rate plant food to favor greater growth 

 of the tree. If the tree is well branched 

 at the time of planting, three or four 

 strong nursery limbs may be allowed 

 to remain, properly shortened, to be- 

 come the first framework of the tree. 



The whitewash reflects the heat on 

 sunny days and prevents sunscald 

 which begins while the tree is dormant 

 Whitewashed trees do not burn or dry 

 out, their buds remain fresh and vigor 

 ous and they will make stronger growth 



ERTISERS ME 



BETTER FRUIT 



