88 NEBRASKA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



White Fly usually congregates on a bunch of fuchsias, or some soft 

 foliage plant. A few strong' applications of nicotine, either sprayed oii 

 foliage or painted on pipes, or better still, both methods applied at the 

 same time, will hold them in check. 



Red Spider, another of our friends, if we will call them such, will 

 work on almost any plant, but is especially active in a hot,, dry atmos- 

 phere. The remedy here is a good sharp spray of cold water and, if the 

 man handling the hose attends to business red spider will not thrive. 



Mealy Bug is not usually troublesome where the hose is handled 

 properly, but on plants in bloom the best remedy we have tried was to 

 go over each plant separately, and touch ]\Ir. Bug on the back with a lit- 

 tle grain alcohol. This may seem a slow way, but a man can go over 

 hundreds of plants in a day, and once every two or three months will 

 keep them clean. 



Scale. — There are a number of species of these, but they usually 

 attack hard-wooded plants, palms, etc., and are kept down with the hose. 

 This, with one or two overhaulings every season, will spoil their fun. 



Wood Lice, Slugs, etc., will have to be poisoned and trapped, as these 

 usually feed at night. A little Paris green will get them, especially the 

 former. For slugs, lay pieces of turnip or cabbage around their haunts, 

 and you will find Mr. Slug hiding there in the morning. 



We have now talked about bugs and insects long enough, and will 

 deal from this point with greenhouse plant diseases for a few minutes. 

 Beginning with mildew, which is one of the hardest things the rose 

 grower has to contend with, especially in houses where other plants be- 

 sides roses are grown, but you can find traces of it in nearly every rose 

 house, and the causes are many, viz., cold, draft, wet feet, or too dry 

 feet, sudden changes in temperature, etc., all of which must be guarded 

 against. After doing our best (of course, we all do that), we find mil- 

 dew. Paint the heating pipes with sulphur, using moderation, or we will 

 take all thei color out of the buds and even drop the foliage. The fall 

 and spring are the times mildew gets us, either before fires arei started 

 or after we quit firing. About the only thing to do then is to watch closely 

 the watering and ventilation, and on a bright day, after swinging close 

 the ventilators dust sulphur over the plants. The moisture causes it to 

 adhere to the foliage. Let the temperature rise to 90 or 100 degrees for 

 a minute, then begin gradually to reduce to what you carry the house at. 



Black Spot, another rose disease, is caused by too much moisture 

 either on the foliage or at the root. Here again careful watering and 

 ventilation is needed. Hybrid teas are the ones most susceptible to this 

 disease. 



Club Root, caused by a minute insect or worm, or whatever you may 

 call it, is another one of the many we have to contend with. I am led to 

 believe by observation that if the plants are healthy when benched, and 

 handled properly, you will have no trouble with eel worms. They are in 

 most all soils, and a hard check to a growing rose bush simply gives 

 them a chance to hasten its end. 



