PRUNING Al'l'LK TliEES. 157 



Figure 1 represents an average condition one may expect a tree to be 

 in at tlie age of eigliteen or twenty years if left to grow unattended. It 

 is next to impossible to spray a tree in this condition. 



Figure 2 shows the same tree after it has been properly pruned. The 

 large pile of prunings gives an idea of the amount of wood that was 

 removed. Note that this was not obtained by merely cutting out a few 

 large limbs. The entire top was relieved until there were no crossed, 

 rubbing, or crowded branches. Too often one is prone to cut out three or 

 four large branches and let it go at that. This may be needed, but the 

 tree is scarcely half pruned when this is done. A few large branches 

 properly selected and removed will open up the crowded center and will 

 relieve the tree of some of its surplus wood. These things are needed, 

 but when this is done see to it that the outer portion of the tree is thinned 

 out. After all, here is where most of the fruit is borne. Take the shears 

 and clip off branches from an inch down to the size of a lead pencil all over 

 the outer part of the tree until it presents an open appearance such as you 

 have given the center by removing the large branches. It may be neces- 

 sary to use the ladder for this part of the pruning. 



Figure 3 represents another condition that is entirely too common in 

 Nebraska orchards. This tree has not only been in sod most of its life, 

 neglected generally, but it has been allowed to grow too high. It is very 

 difficult to spray the top of such a tree and to harvest the fruit is next to 

 impossible. Trees of this type may be brought back into profitable bear- 

 ing with the proper treatment. What this tree needs is to have its top 

 lowered several feet, to have a considerable portion of its old wood taken 

 out, and to stimulate it into a more vigorous growth. When one attempts 

 to lower the top of an old apple tree by "dehorning" it he should be careful 

 to cut back to a good healthy side branch for a feeder to avoid leaving a 

 stub. The cut should be made slanting so as not to hold water. When it 

 is necessary to cut away a considerable portion of the wood at a single 

 operation a rank growth of water sprouts is apt to be induced the follow- 

 ing year. It is very important that a severe pruning be followed up the 

 next year by removing these, in order to throw the growth into the bearing 

 wood that has been left. 



While an apple tree may be pruned most any time during the year, 

 there are certain advantages in doing it during the dormant season — that 

 is, any time after the leaves drop in the fall and before growth begins in 

 the spring. Other work is not so pressing at this time, and one can see 

 better what he is doing than if the leaves were on. If the pruning is done 

 during winter a great amount of spray material is saved and a much better 

 job of spraying is made possible. 



The cuts should be made up close to avoid leaving a stub. Larger 

 wounds will be made, but they will heal over more readily than if cut 

 farther out. All cut surfaces of over an inch in diameter should be painted 

 over. Most any paint will answer this purpose, but white lead mixed with 

 raw linseed oil is recommended. 



