238 NEBRASKA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



the scabby fruit is stored in large quantities in sheds, cellars, or piles 

 where asmospheric conditons are damp and close. Here it completes the 

 destruction begun by the scab, and even when fruity attacked by it is 

 shipped it has been known to destroy carload lots in the very few days 

 of transit. 



Besides the attack spoken of in the early s^ason, there is another at- 

 tack of scab that appears in August, and although this may appear slight 

 its result is very severe, as this gives the chance for pink rot to get in 

 later in the season. This attack also furnishes the spores to attack leaves 

 later in the season, so that the disease may be carried over winter and 

 continue the devastation next season. Of course the manner in which 

 winter spores are produced is quite different from the summer form, but 

 the result is the same and all tend to perpetuation of the disease. 



From what has been said it is evident that control must begin in the 

 early spring before the disease has got started again, and in very bad 

 cases spraying should begin before the leaves come out, spraying with a 

 lime sulphur solution or Bordeaux. Give the sprays as recommended in 

 the spray and practice outline of the State Experiment Station, mixing 

 in a generous lot of our own good common sense, and apple scab can 

 be controlled if not completely eradicated from any locality. 



THE VALUE OF SOME SMALL FRUITS. 

 By David Knight in Fruit Belt. 



RASPBERRIES. 



Here is a crop that is not hard to grow or hard to keep in culture af- 

 ter started, and the profits to be derived from a patch of either red or 

 black raspberries, properly managed, is something enormous. As with 

 strawberries, any land that will grow good corn or potatoes will grow 

 raspberries successfully, but keep in mind that this land must have a good 

 drainage system, either through the sub-soil or by tiling. Black raspber- 

 ries should be set so it is possible to cultivate both ways. The I'ows 

 should be seven feet apart and the plants from three to three and one- 

 half feet in the row. Set your plants in the spring and cultivate and hoe 

 them about the way you would corn or potatoes. As soon as growth starts 

 and the plants are 18 or 20 inches high, pinch out the top of each cane, 

 which will cause them to send out laterals, thus making a greater capacity 

 for fruit bearing the following year. Along towards fall these laterals 

 will have grown to a considerable length, in a great many cases touching 

 the ground. Now if you wish to grow some plants for your own setting the 

 following spring you should lay these laterals down in the fall as soon 

 as they show a trifle white at the tips, and cover them over with enough 

 earth to hold them in place. The tips thus buried will start a rooting 

 system of their own, and the following spring, as soon as the leaves have 

 commenced to come out a little, cut the laterals off 12 or 15 inches from 

 the stalk and dig your young plants. 



