DIVISIOX OF HORTICULTURE 885 



SESSIONAL PAPER No. 16 



Continual pinching out of the side shoots is necessary to get the fruit to develop 

 as quickly as possible. When the shoots are large select 1 to 4 of the shoots, pinching 

 the others out, the remainder can either be tied to sticks or left on the ground; cleaner 

 tomatoes being the only advantage in Ifhe former method. All side shoots must be 

 pinched out of each stem left. After the fourth or fifth flower appears the point or 

 crown should be pinched out above the first leaf after the flower, this gives all the fruit 

 a chance to develop. It is needless to note that the less fruit allowed to grow on a plant 

 tlie better are the chances of ripening. 



Spinach. — Spinach is one of the first vegetables ready for use. The leaves are cut 

 while young and boiled for table use as one would prepare cabbage. The Victoria was 

 the only variety under test. The seed can be sown in the fall as it is quite hai'-dy. 



Salsify or Vegetable Oyster. — Long White was the only variety used. It made 

 good growth. 



FLOWERS. 



ANNUALS. 



^ Owing to the short season and the tenderness of a number of varieties of annuals, 

 it has been found necessary to start the plants in hotbeds. A circular describing the 

 method of preparing a hotbed can be had on application. If a hotbed is not available 

 the seeds may be sovtu in a window box. As soon as the second set of leaves appears 

 the plant should be transplanted into another shallow box about 2 inches apart and 

 where they may remain until about the 1st of June, when danger of frost is past, 

 and they can be set out in the open. It is not wise to attempt to grow them in a box 

 without transplanting them into another box as just described for unless transplanted 

 they are inclined to grow too spindly and tall. 



This was an exceptionally good season for annuals as there were frequent showers 

 at the time of planting out and during the season. There were approximately 12,000 

 plants set out, which included fifty varieties of annuals. Seventy varieties of sweet peas 

 were sown as early as possible in the spring and made a splendid showing. 



Owing to the character of the season very few varieties ripened seed. The follow- 

 ing kinds can be numbered among the easiest to raise: Antirrhiniim (or snapdragon), 

 larkspur, phlox, verbena, pansy, helichrysum (everlasting), zinnia, petunia, marigold, 

 nicotiana, lavatera, coreopsis, and lobelia. All of the above can be obtained in various 

 colours. The following are perfectly hardy and grow best sown in the open: Nastur- 

 tium, mignonette, poppy, calendula and candytuft. 



Bulbs. — The first thing necessary when planting bulbs is to have the ground in 

 readiness, it being prepared during the summer by applying a heavy coating of well 

 rotted manure and digging a foot deep, care being taken to keep the manure well down. 

 At the beginning of October the bul-bs should be planted 4 inches apart, either in rows 

 or massed. Root development commences early in October under natural conditions 

 and continues throughout the winter. If the bulbs are planted later than the end of 

 October there is less chance of getting good blooms owing to the lack of root develop- 

 ment in tlie faU. Tulips, and daffodils, especially the former, do extremely well. 

 Thirty-two varieties of tulips and fourteen varieties of daffodils were received from 

 Holland and planted in the borders of the lawns in October of 1914. From about the 

 last week in April to the end of May the border was a mass of colour. The early tulips 

 ' came out followed by the late-flowering varieties, and last of all came the Darwin 

 tulips. The varieties recommended are: Early tulips — Vermilion Brilliant (bright 

 vermilion), Proserpine (crimson pink). La Reine (white), Joost Van Vondel (white), 

 Artus (scarlet), Chrysolora (yellow), and Cottage Maid (pink). Late flowering— 



Lethbridge. 



