The Farmhouse 



1503 



garden part of the house, partaking of the protection of the one and the 

 freedom of the other. 



The chief difficulty with a united porch and garden scheme arises 

 from the usual difference in height between the porch floor and the yard 

 level. These two levels may be brought near together either by setting 

 the house low on the ground and building areas around the cellar windows 

 (Fig. 66), or by raising a flat, graded terrace to within a step or two of 

 the porch floor. Both these schemes are frequently and successfully 

 practiced, and in no way prevent light and air from entering the cellar. 



In order to be commodious, a porch should be room-shaped, rather 

 than long and narrow. A porch ten to twelve feet wide and fourteen 



Fig. 73. — Perspective view of a white shingle country house. The foreground 

 shows a room-shaped porch, twelve by tiventy feet, with ends covered by decorative 

 lattice to be used for vines. Floor level two steps above grade. Porch floors 

 with brick edge and cement body. Areas built around cellar windows 



to twenty feet long will give greater comfort than one six to eight feet 

 wide and extending around two sides of the house. Furthermore, a 

 rectangular porch will not darken so much of the interior as will one ex- 

 tending along the full length of the house. If the porch occupies a sunny 

 position, it may be shaded and embowered by screening with lattice- 

 work, over which vines may be allowed to grow. A cement or brick floor 

 is desirable for porch use. 



If an upstairs sleeping-porch is planned, the railing should be built 

 solidly from the floor for two or three feet, and the open part above should 

 be provided with window sash and awnings in order that storms and 

 early morning light may be excluded. This arrangement can be made 

 comfortable for year-round use and may prove a good investment as 

 far as the health of the family is concerned. 



