Culture of Raspberries 



1689 



1910 



Number 

 of acres 



Number 

 of farms 



Yield 

 per acre 

 (quarts) 



Income 

 per acre 



Gravelly loam 

 Sandy loam . . 

 Clay loam . . . . 



63-5 

 30.6 



7-4 



40 

 21 



7 



1,414 

 1,306 

 2,097 



$141-43 

 147.29 



237-40 



Exposure 



The largest and sweetest fruit, in the case of the red raspberry, grows 

 in the shade. Probably most persons will recall that this is true of the 

 wild berries in the woods, or when a cluster grows in the center of the bush 

 in the garden. In view of this, and since the red raspberry does not thrive 

 best in the scorching sun, a northern or western exposure is preferable 

 for commercial patches. In the garden a cool, shady spot should be 

 chosen, but the grower should not hesitate to plant elsewhere if these 

 conditions cannot be met. 



Propagation 



The common method of increasing the red raspberry is to dig up and 

 transplant the suckers that spring from the roots. These are really 

 root cuttings, as explained below. During the summer a large number 

 of sprouts, or suckers as they are called, spring up from the roots. These 

 suckers come up naturally, even though the roots are undisturbed, but 

 their growth can be directed in number and position by wounding the 

 roots of the parent plant. A sucker can be expected wherever the root 

 is wounded. The cultivator often breaks the roots and probably is 

 responsible for many suckers that come up between the rows. 



The young plants should be so dug up as to remove a part of the horizon- 

 tal root with them if possible. They are then really root cuttings, 

 although this term is commonly applied to pieces of the root of the 

 parent plant from which no growth has started, as explained in the 

 following paragraph. These cuttings may be transplanted in either 

 spring or autumn, preferably at the latter season. 



Most varieties sprout freely and no other method of propagation is 

 needed. A few varieties, however, send up suckers sparingly, and in 

 that case it is necessary to resort to root cuttings. In this method the 

 roots of the plant are dug up in autumn and cut into pieces three or four 

 inches in length. The pieces are stored in a cool cellar during the winter, 

 usually being buried in moist sand in flats. In spring they are planted 

 in ground that has been well prepared. The cutting may be placed 



