112 NEBRASKA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



earth among the roots, lift the tree slightly as the earth is filled in, 

 and tamp firmly, or water very thoroughly, which I consider the better 

 way, as you are sure then to have the earth packed well about the 

 roots. 



The preparation of land for wind-breaks, groves and the larger plan- 

 tations for domestic or commercial purposes, is done as a "matter of 

 course" on a more extended scale. After the land has been well 

 ploughed and harrowed, it is marked out to the required distances, 

 which can be done with a lister, then a subsoil plow should be run back 

 and forth in each furrow to thoroughly soften the earth. By this 

 method you cultivate deeply and greatly facilitate the work of planting. 

 Trees of small size are used for this class of planting, as they are less 

 affected by drought, and recuperate more quickly after transplanting 

 than would those of a larger size. 



When planting of any sort is done, exposure of the roots to the sun 

 or wind must be avoided as much as possible. To counteract this 

 recourse is had to the puddling of the roots while planting. 



Care should also be taken against exposure while in transit by pack- 

 ing with moss, hay or straw, and if received in a dry condition (as will 

 sometimes occur) they should be well sprinkled and shaded some hours 

 before the planting is done. 



Where planting is done on land of poor quality, the application of 

 manure of some form will be of much benefit from time to time. 

 Whether trees are isolated or in groups they should be liberally watered 

 at intervals and the ground around them kept well pulverized between 

 waterings. This applies more especially to the first and second years, 

 or until the trees get established. 



The pruning of trees at the time of planting should consist of fore- 

 shortening the branches of those of medium size to sufficiently balance 

 the tree, and in some measure equalize the branches with the loss of 

 roots caused by digging, for we all know that it is an utter impossibility 

 to get all or nearly all the roots of a newly-dug tree. 



In transplanting larger sized trees, I cut most of the lateral branches 

 close to the bole, and find that as a rule they reproduce a head and are 

 more thrifty than those upon which the laterals are partly allowed to 

 remain. This I find is the case more especially in spring planting. 



In many instances it may be necessary to shorten back long, strag- 

 gling roots, but this should be confined to a few out of all proportion 

 to the rest, but all badly bruised roots, or those accidentally broken, 

 should be taken oif with a clear cut. 



The after-pruning of trees depends altogether for v/hat purpose they 

 are intended. Street trees should be planted thirty to forty feet apart 

 to get room to develop properly, and necessity requires that the branches 

 be at least eight or ten feet from the ground in their earlier growth, but 

 in a few years both the space between the trees and the height from 

 the ground will have to be increased, but this depends on the varieties 



